Wine Regions

In my previous post on Bordeaux last month, I covered some of the major appellations for white wines, both dry and sweet. This month’s post will concentrate on some of the red wines that Bordeaux is so very famous for.
Let’s first start out with a little about the red grapes that are grown in Bordeaux. There are three major varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. There are also two lesser-known grapes that are sometimes used in the blend as well: Petit Verdot and Malbec. A third grape, Carmenère, used to be part of the blend, but after Bordeaux was hit by phylloxera in the late 1800s, much of it was not replanted and so today it is very rarely used.
While Cabernet Sauvignon is considered by many to be the King of Bordeaux, it is in fact, the second-most planted red grape in the region. The most-planted red grape of Bordeaux is actually Merlot. Much of this has to do with the soils that are found in Bordeaux. On the well-draining gravelly soils that dot the region, Cabernet Sauvignon is typically the favored grape. But for the cooler, damper soils that are found throughout much of the rest of Bordeaux, Merlot has proved easier to grow. Merlot tends to tolerate dampness better than Cabernet Sauvignon and it also ripens earlier. The differences between these two grapes can be very helpful in a region with a lot of wet weather and the possibility of rain during the harvest months.
In fact, while some interpret blends as a way of camouflaging a grape’s limitations, another way of looking at a blend is that the sum is greater than the parts. Not only do Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon act almost as insurance policies for each other by ripening at different times and having a preference for different soil types, but they also work to complement each other in a blend. Merlot adds a softness and a fullness to Cabernet Sauvignon while Cabernet’s acidity and tannins can be used to prevent Merlot from being too plush and lacking in structure. Each of the other grapes, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec have something to add as well and the combination of all of these grapes ideally works to create a wine that is well-balanced, long-lived and harmonious on the palate.
As we discussed in the first post about Bordeaux, the region’s appellations can be thought of as concentric circles. The largest circle for red wines would be the AOC Bordeaux – think of it as a regional appellation that encompasses almost all of Bordeaux. It accounts for approximately 40% of all red wines produced in Bordeaux. A slightly smaller circle is the AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, which has a minimum alcohol that is a half a percent higher than AOC Bordeaux, a slightly higher aging requirement of a minimum of 12 months and is made from selected spots within the appellation.
Now here is where the circles get a bit confusing as there are lots of smaller appellations that are well worth discussing. This post will focus on the Left Bank, or the west side of the Gironde where we find the very important appellation of the Médoc. The Médoc is perhaps the most famous home for Cabernet Sauvignon in the world. With its well-draining soils with their high gravel content and a climate moderated by close proximity to the ocean, the Médoc is well-suited to growing high quality Cabernet Sauvignon. The Médoc is also very famous because it is the main subject of the historical Classification of 1855 (Graves was included as well, but we are going to discuss that area separately in another post). This classification of the chateaux on the Left Bank was put together by the merchants in Bordeaux and the rankings were based mainly on price. Chateaux were grouped into growths, going from First Growths (or Premier Crus) to Fifth Growths (Cinquième Crus). While many of the chateaux that were classified back in 1855 have ceased to exist, for the most part, the 1855 classification is still used in Bordeaux and there has only been one formal change to the list in 1973, when Château Mouton-Rothschild was changed from a Second Growth to a First Growth. It is important to note though, that the classification of 1855 is not part of the AOC system and in many ways, getting to know the different appellations is much more important than memorizing the entire list of classified growths.
Returning to our idea of concentric circles, within the Médoc is the Haut-Médoc, an appellation made up of vineyards located in several communes that are not entitled to their own commune AOC. Many of these wines can represent excellent buys for Bordeaux lovers. Château Corconnac, one of the wines from my list, is a great example of an affordable and very delicious Haut-Médoc wine.
Finally, within the Médoc we reach the most important Left Bank appellations – the communes of St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, and Margaux, which are home to the majority of those chateaux from the 1855 classification. St. Estèphe is known for producing full-bodied, but rather austere red wines with high levels of acidity that are typically very age-worthy. Two of the most well-known producers are Ch. Montrose and Cos d’Estournel. Pauillac is perhaps one of the most famous communes in the Médoc as it is home to three of the five first growths – Ch. Lafite-Rothschild, Ch. Latour and Ch. Mouton-Rothschild. The wines of Pauillac are very powerful, concentrated and long-lived and especially known for their distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon character and notes of cassis and cedar.
The next commune, that of St-Julien, is perhaps a bit underrated compared to the others. It typically produces wines that are a bit more subtle and approachable. Chateaux such as Léoville-Las-Cases, Léoville-Poyferré and Léoville-Barton, Gruaud-Larose, and Ducru-Beaucaillou are some of the best-known producers from St-Julien. Finally, we reach the commune of Margaux, the home of the well-known Ch. Margaux as well as Ch. Palmer, Ch. Lascombes and Ch. Brane-Cantenac. Wines from Margaux are considered to be some of the most perfumed and silky of the Médoc. While many will argue that Margaux has experienced more ups and downs than other communes, when the 1855 Classification was originally put together, Margaux had more properties included than any other commune. Fortunately for Cabernet Sauvignon (and Merlot) lovers everywhere, it is back on the upswing today.
We’ll continue in another post with some of the other smaller communes in Bordeaux that can offer wine lovers a good buy, but I thought it would be important to cover some of the most historical and well-known appellations in this post about the Left Bank. As always, let me know if you have any questions and comments!

When you say the word, “Bordeaux,” in all likelihood, the image that springs to your mind is one of large chateaux and bottles of red wine. However, this wonderful region in France is also known for producing top-quality white wines – both of the dry and the sweet persuasion.

The white wine production region for Bordeaux is concentrated in two areas. The first area of major importance is the appellation of Entre-Deux-Mers, which is located between the Dordogne and the Garonne rivers. The second, is found on the south side of the Garonne. There you can find the appellations for both dry and sweet wines, including Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac.
One of the things I love most about French wine is how each region grows grapes or uses grapes in a blend that is fairly unique to that appellation. For Bordeaux, the wines are made from a blend of two (and sometimes three) grapes: Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc (with the third grape being Muscadelle). While Sauvignon Blanc is grown elsewhere in France, the “unique factor” here is that in Bordeaux it is blended with Semillon. And furthermore, while the production of dry wines can be found all over the world, the sweet wines of Bordeaux are in truly in a special class all by themselves – as you will shortly see.

Of the two major white wine grapes of the region, Sauvignon Blanc is undoubtedly the better known. Sauvignon Blanc is recognized for having a fairly high level of acidity and notes of grapefruit peel, zesty citrus fruits, passionfruits and gooseberries on both the nose and the palate. Semillon, on the other hand, has a more mellow profile. The level of acidity is a bit lower and the level of potential alcohol is much higher. The flavor profile is characterized by notes of honey, oranges, orange marmalade and figs. Up through the 1970s, Sémillon was extremely important for white wine production for both dry and sweet wines. But today, Sauvignon Blanc is increasingly dominating the blend for dry wines, while Semillon is the favored grape for the sweet wines.

One of the major reasons that Semillon is so important for the production of sweet wines in Bordeaux is its propensity for developing Botrytis cinerea, a special type of fungus that works to dehydrate the grapes, thus concentrating the sugar level (think of it as tasting the difference between raisins and grapes – the dehydrated grapes, i.e. the raisins, have much higher levels of sugar). When you go to ferment grapes that have been affected by botrytis, the yeasts can’t convert all of the sugar to alcohol, and thus there is residual sugar left in the wine making it a sweet wine. The Maritime climate of Bordeaux, with morning mists and high levels of humidity, is also perfect for developing botrytis. You will notice that the best areas for producing the sweet styles of wines, Sauternes, Barsac, and Ste-Croix-du-Mont to name three of the most famous, are clustered around the Garonne river.
The most famous appellation for the production of sweet wines in Bordeaux is Sauternes and the best-known producer in the region is Chateau d’Yquem. I love to relate the story that one glass of d’Yquem is equal to the production of one grapevine in the vineyard – production levels for the sweet wines of Sauternes is obviously very low! There are five communes that are entitled to use the name Sauternes on the label. They are: Barsac, Sauternes, Bommes, Fargues and Preignac. Barsac is entitled to its own appellation and so you will find some wines produced in the commune sold under the AOC Barsac and then other producers who choose to use the Sauternes appellation. Typically Barsac is thought to have a slightly lighter style compared to Sauternes.
Turning to the dry white wines of the region, there is a bit of variability in style and taste profile. Many of the whites made today are very fresh and fruity with a high percentage of Sauvignon Blanc. These typically are labeled as Bordeaux AOC and Entre-Deux-Mers. In contrast, the appellations of Pessac-Leognan and Graves are known for producing white wines that have been aged in oak and are made in a more full-bodied and age-worthy style. These two regions in particular are known for producing wines that can have a very distinctive mineral note that many believe is partly due to the special gravelly, well-draining soil of the area.
I often find that many people, especially those just starting to learn about wine, make the mistake of thinking that Bordeaux is a region that is only good for red wines. As you can see, there is quite a range of white wines that can be found as well. Whether you are looking for a dry wine or a sweet wine, Bordeaux is a region that should appeal to all wine drinkers, especially those looking for food-friendly wines. If you would like to taste more of the white wines of Bordeaux, there are a few on my top picks list that offer great value. For an example of Sauternes, I suggest trying the Castelnau de Suduiraut. And if you would like to taste a dry white from Bordeaux, look for either the Lafite Réserve Spéciale Bordeaux Blanc or the Michel Lynch Sauvignon Blanc. Happy Learning!

There are few wine regions in this world as famous as Bordeaux. You could also argue that few regions produce wines that have been as emulated as those of Bordeaux. Bordeaux produces more top-quality wines than any other region in France and it is home to some of the world’s most expensive wines. There is a range of wines produced in the region that runs from elegant, dry whites from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon to full-bodied, tannic reds made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc to sweet, luscious dessert wines made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

Let’s start with a few words about the history of Bordeaux, as that is actually central to the development of the region. We know, thanks to the Latin poet Ausonius, that grapes have been grown in the region going back to the 4th century AD. However, the most important historical date to remember when it comes to Bordeaux is 1152 – which is when Henry II (who was the future King of England at the time) married Eleanor of Aquitaine (who had recently divorced the King of France, Louis VII). Eleanor, who was the Duchess of Aquitaine, the Countess of Poitiers and Duchess of Gascony, had control over much of the South-west part of France, including the region of Bordeaux. Her land-holdings made her one of the wealthiest and most powerful women in Europe. The marriage between Henry and Eleanor was central to the expansion of Bordeaux as a wine region as it gave Bordeaux merchants special treatment in London. This meant that Bordeaux wine was cheaper than other imports for the English and the Bordelais were able to dramatically increase their market share in England.

Bordeaux’s position as a port on the coast of France right on the Atlantic made it perfectly situated as a trading center, so even after the English lost control of the region, Bordeaux remained a fairly wealthy merchant city thanks to trade agreements with other European cities. The wealth of the merchant class in Bordeaux is mostly responsible for the unique structure of the Bordeaux wine industry, which includes a middleman called a négociant, who provides a link in the selling chain between the large chateaux and the consumer.

Water and wine are thus central to understanding Bordeaux. Without the easy access to the sea and its status as an important port, the city of Bordeaux would probably not have been able to establish such a successful wine trade and without the powerful and successful merchant class, there would not have been as much wealth that was used to establish and grow the vineyards of the region. Proximity to water is also an essential part of what makes the wines of Bordeaux so unique. The maritime climate with its moderate temperatures and high levels of humidity are central to the structured and elegant wines produced in the region. The humidity is also key to the production of Bordeaux’s sweet wines, which we will discuss in more depth in the next post.

When I sat down to write this post about Bordeaux, it occurred to me that the only way to approach such a hugely important region was to break it up into multiple parts. In order to not overload you with information, I am going to use the geography of Bordeaux as a way to organize my posts on the region. The region can be divided into several parts and the divisions are based on the location of the main rivers in the area. There are two main rivers in Bordeaux – the Dordogne and the Garonne - which meet together and flow into the Gironde estuary. On the west side of the Gironde is the Médoc, also called the Left Bank, and on the other, Pomerol and St-Emilion, referred to as the Right Bank. In between the Dordogne and the Garonne rivers is the appellation of Entre-Deux-Mers (which means “between the seas”), which is a main area of white wine production. And on the south side of the Garonne are other important white wine appellations for both dry and sweet wines – Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac. So consider this first post as a bit of an introduction; we will continue next with a post about the white wines of Bordeaux, both dry and sweet, and then we will move into the red wines and cover both the left and the right banks.

In the first part of my Burgundy post we discussed some of the history of the region, the concept of terroir (the taste of a place) and the main grapes of the region (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay). In this part, we will go over the main regions of Burgundy and also cover some tips for buying Burgundy wines.

Burgundy can be divided up into several main regions. We’ll start with the northern end of the region, which is where we find Chablis. Millions of years ago, the area around Chablis was actually under water, and today you can still find fossils of oyster shells in the limestone-clay soils of the region. The wines of Chablis are white, and all made with 100% Chardonnay. Most of the wines from this very cool climate are going to be crisp in acid with notes of green apples and a gunflint/mineral character. It used to be that there was very little new oak used in Chablis, but now you will find some producers who use it. When you are shopping for Chablis, you will find wines with labels that say Appellation Contrôlée (AOC for short) Chablis, AOC Chablis Premier Cru and AOC Grand Cru.

As we make our way from North to South, the next part of Burgundy is the Côte d’Or, which is actually divided into two sections – Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. There are 25 villages (also called communes) in the Côte d’Or which produce wines from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. You can see from the map below the names of all of those different villages. While both the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune produce red and white wines, the Côte de Nuits is more known for its red wines and the Côte de Beaune more respected for its whites (but you can’t deny that it does also produce some excellent red wines).

There are two main appellations that cover pretty much all of Burgundy: Bourgogne Rouge (Pinot Noir) and Bourgogne Blanc (Chardonnay). If the grapes are grown in one particular village or even from a specific vineyard in a village, then the wine might be entitled to a more specific AOC (Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc are pretty broad appellations). So here is where it starts to get a bit more confusing: within the 25 villages of the Côte d’Or, you will find a large number of vineyards that have their own appellation. Some of these vineyards have also earned special designations. There are those classified as Premier Cru and then there are those elite sites that are considered the best of the best that are classified as Grand Cru sites. There are so many different appellations to mention that it might take weeks for us to discuss them all! (If you would like more information on each specific village, I suggest starting with Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine – it is THE reference book every wine lover should own.)

While it is true that Premier Cru and Grand Cru Burgundies are very expensive, the majority of wines produced in Burgundy are actually pretty affordable. You can find a wide selection of good quality Burgundies priced between $15 and $35. I recommend that you start off looking for wines that have “Bourgogne” on the label (followed by Blanc (or Chardonnay) or Rouge (or Pinot Noir). You can find several to try on my list – like the Burgundy Hills Pinot Noir, the Domaine Faiveley Bourgogne Blanc & Rouge, Maison Joseph Drouhin Laforet Chardonnay & Pinot Noir, and the Olivier Leflaive Bourgogne “Les Setilles.” Wines labeled Côte-de Beaune-Villages or Côte-de-Nuits-Villages can be a good value and I also suggest keeping your eyes peeled for good values from some of the lesser-known villages like Marsannay, Fixin, Savigny-lès-Beaune and St.-Aubin.

Further down the road in Burgundy you will find the Côte Chalonnaise and below that, the Mâconnais. The Côte Chalonnaise produces both red and white wines that can offer very good values for Burgundy – look for wines from Rully, Mercurey, Givry and Montagny in particular. The Mâconnais, which is home to the well-known Pouilly-Fuissé appellation, producers mostly white wines, but there are still some reds made, too. The wines of the Mâconnais region can also offer some excellent values for Burgundy lovers: I suggest looking for wines labeled as Mâcon-Villages, Viré-Clessé, St Véran and, of course, Pouilly-Fuissé. Two to try from my list are the Labouré-Roi Pouilly Fuissé Vallon d’Or and the Domaine des Valanges Macon-Fuissé.

One of the important things to understand about Burgundy is that it has a very fractured vineyard system, where it is possible that a single vineyard can potentially have multiple owners. This fractured system has to do with several things – the fact that vineyards were predominantly owned by the Church up until the French Revolution, the fact that the Napoleonic law of succession, which divides an estate equally between an individual’s heirs, has traditionally been enforced in Burgundy, and the fact that land is so highly valued and expensive in this region.

All of these factors have contributed to why négociants, or wine merchants, are so popular in Burgundy. Négociants such as Jadot and Latour, to name only two, buy up grapes or wine from various grape-growers in Burgundy and then produce wines under their own private label. (Many grape-growers in Burgundy simply don’t produce enough grapes to make bottling and selling the wine worthwhile.) The positive side to this, and what makes a complex region somewhat easier to navigate, is that when you find a négociant you like, you will also usually discover that this same négociant makes wines from other villages and vineyards in Burgundy. So, by looking for the negociant’s name, you have the unique opportunity to taste all of the different terroirs to find the wines that best suit your palate.

Yes, Burgundy can be a challenge, but for most, it remains a puzzle well worth attempting to decipher. There are very few regions in the world that produce wines from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir as exquisite and memorable. So go ahead and take the plunge into Burgundy. I don’t think you will regret it!

I’ll be honest – I’ve always considered Burgundy to be my Achilles heel of the wine world: I love the wines from this region of France and find them completely fascinating, but the sheer number of different appellations and vineyards, as well as producers, has always confused me a little bit. Add to that the fact that I don’t really speak any French, so the names on the bottle frequently don’t sound the same way as they are spelled, and you have a bit of a challenge.

What’s a wine lover to do? Well, for one thing, you can’t let it stop you. You have to bravely plunge right into Burgundy because if you decide to skip drinking Burgundy, then you will definitely be missing out on some of the most wonderful wines in all of France. So to help you along on your journey of discovering Burgundy, this is the first of two posts that cover some of the key things you need to know about Burgundy and how you can work on developing a better understanding of this incredible region.

Let’s start off with a little bit of history about Burgundy. This is a region that has been making wine since at least the 4th century AD – if not before. While it is likely that the Romans brought some grapevines with them when they invaded Gaul way back in the 1st century AD, it is also believed that there were already vines being farmed in Burgundy for the purpose of making wine. Unfortunately, detailed record-keeping wasn’t popular until much later, so we will never know the exact details of the origins of the Burgundian wine industry. But by the Middle Ages, we can be very certain that grapes were being grown by nobles and peasants alike. Part of why we know this has to do with the fact that during the Middle Ages in Burgundy, wine-making became one of the central activities of the monks of Burgundy and it was this group that truly revolutionized the winemaking of the region.

As the Church owned a vast amount of vineyards and monks had the time, skill and resources to study the different grapes and vineyards, it was a natural fit. Over time, through intense study and documentation, monks helped to identify the best sites in the region and also which grapes produced the best wines on those sites. The region of Burgundy is very closely tied to the concept of TERROIR, which can be loosely translated to mean “the taste of a place.” Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are grapes that are reflective of their terroir – meaning that the wines produced in Burgundy from these grapes will taste differently, depending on which particular vineyards they are grown in. “Terroir” is thus a combination of grape, climate, exposure, soil and, last but not least, human know-how. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay were identified very early on as grapes that were capable of producing exceptional wines in Burgundy, with its limestone soil and cool climate.

Therefore, after centuries of work, the Burgundians feel strongly that it is best to concentrate on two main grapes: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. In fact, as far back as the 14th century, it was recognized that Pinot Noir produced better wines than other red grapes that were being grown in the area. So almost all of the white wine from Burgundy is made from the Chardonnay grape and almost all of the red wine from Burgundy is made from the Pinot Noir grape. (There are, as always, just a few exceptions, but only a few, so it is pretty safe to stick with knowing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.)

So what do these wines taste like? Well, there is a good deal of variation depending on where exactly in Burgundy the grapes are grown, thanks to terroir. But overall, you can describe the whites as being elegant and mineral with little to moderate amounts of oak. The use of new oak, which gives wines a toasty, vanilla note, is not as popular in Burgundy as it is in other places around the wine world, so many of the whites do not see 100% new oak, but instead only a proportion of new oak. Depending on the appellation, which we will address in the next post, the Chardonnays of Burgundy can be nutty, taste of golden apples, lemons, and spice, or be lean with notes of green apples and minerals.

The reds, made of Pinot Noir, tend to be moderately intense in color, sometimes even on the pale side, as Pinot Noir doesn’t have as much color potential as other red grapes. On the nose they are aromatic, with notes of red fruits and spices. Pinot Noir tends to make wines with supple, silky tannins and a smooth mouth-feel. The wines can have earthy aromas and flavors, but also hints of raspberries, cherries and cooking spices. The best examples from Burgundy are capable of extensive aging and will only get better with time. The common thread for both the reds and whites of Burgundy is how food-friendly these wines are, as Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs from Burgundy tend to have high levels of mouth-watering acidity and moderate levels of alcohol.

In my next post, we’ll get into the different appellations of Burgundy and how to deal with the challenge of buying wines from this region.

There are few wine regions that have a more interesting “founding” story than that of Champagne. While there is a great deal of evidence to indicate that the story of the sparkling wine of Champagne being invented by Dom Pérignon, a monk at the Abbey of Hautvillers, is not true, the idea that he was responsible does persist to this day. Legend holds that Dom Pérignon discovered a bottle of wine in which a second fermentation had taken place which had produced carbon dioxide and cried out to his fellow monks, “come quick Brothers, I am drinking the stars!” While we know that this was not what happened, it does much to illustrate the certain “Hollywood” quality unique to Champagne.

So how exactly is Champagne made? Well, first the grapes (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) are picked by hand. This is necessary because you want to avoid breaking any grapes so that there is no contact between the grape skins and the grape juice. This is important because color in a wine comes from skin contact and as 2 of the 3 grapes for Champagne are red - but the final color of the wine desired is more often than not white - you don’t want to encourage anything that will promote skin contact and color extraction.

Once picked, the grapes are pressed in whole bunches, again to prevent as much skin contact as possible. The wine is then fermented with the goal of producing a wine that has high acidity, moderate alcohol and a fairly neutral aroma and flavor. Different vineyards and different grapes are fermented separately and then blended together. The blending step is considered to be one of the most important, as you are not only blending together wines that have just been fermented, but also wines from other vintages. The goal is to create a base wine that will produce a sparkling wine that reflects the house style. For some houses, this can mean blending together as many as 300 different wines to create the final base wine!

After the final base wine is created, a process known as Assemblage, then the Liqueur de triage, a blend of sugar syrup and yeast, is added to the wine. The wine is then bottled and stored horizontally at a cool temperature while the secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle. The secondary fermentation that occurs adds not only carbon dioxide (bubbles), but will also add a bit of alcohol and complex flavors and aromatics to the wine. Once the secondary fermentation has finished, the wine will then go through a process called remuage, or riddling. During remuage, bottles will be slowly and gently tilted and turned so that they move eventually from a horizontal to a vertical position with the neck of the bottle pointing to the floor. This will allow the sediment that has been created as a result of the secondary fermentation to collect in the neck of the bottle.

Once the riddling has been completed, the sediment then has to be removed from the bottled. During the disgorgement process, the neck of the bottle is dipped into a freezing solution and then the cap removed. The sediment, which has frozen into a small “ice cube” of sorts, is pressed out by the pressure of the CO2. The final step before the wine is sealed with a mushroom shaped cork, is for the Liqueur d’expédition to be added to the wine. The Liqueur d’expédition, or the dosage, is an addition of wine and sugar that is added to Champagne to adjust the sweetness level.

• Here are the common levels that you will see for Champagne:
  Extra Brut - no sugar, extremely dry
  Brut - very dry
  Extra Sec/Extra Dry - dry
  Sec/Dry - off-dry
  Demi-Sec/Medium Dry - med-dry/sweet
  Doux - very sweet

Personally, I have always found these labels a bit confusing. Why isn’t “Extra Dry” drier than Brut? Instead, Extra Dry, while still on the dry side, can have a little bit of sweetness to it. If you want to compare Champagne sweetness levels for yourself, simply try the two from my list – the Taittinger Brut and the Moet & Chandon White Star. The Taittinger is a Brut Champagne while the White Star is an example of the Extra Dry style.

The sparkling wines of the Champagne region are truly in a unique class all their own. While so many people tend to think of Champagne as the “go-to” wine for celebrations and New Year’s, there is so much more to appreciate about this region and the wines it produces. Champagne, while it does have bubbles, is still a wine, and a very food-friendly one at that. You might be surprised at the idea, but next time you are having sushi or a fish dish, consider opening a bottle of Champagne. Or even try it with BBQ – you might find yourself pleasantly surprised at the combination.

And furthermore, next time you find yourself in Paris, I recommend thinking about a day trip out to the Champagne region. There are any number of producers to visit and the city of Rheims is well-worth exploring. But check the times and tours before you go – making up your own translation to a tour of Champagne caves can be amusing, but you’ll definitely be missing out on some key information that will help you appreciate this wine!

The summer in between my junior and senior years of college, I spent several weeks in Belgium on an art history study abroad program. It just so happened, that while I was there, my aunt and uncle and their two little boys were visiting France on vacation. Since train travel is so easy in Europe, one weekend I headed down to Rheims (Reims in French), a major city in the Champagne region.

Cindy and Jon, my aunt and uncle, are passionate travelers and so we spent the day exploring the beautiful city of Rheims. We toured the fantastic Notre-Dame de Reims (the Cathedral of Rheims), which was built in the 13th century and was the site of many coronations, including that of Charles VII (which was attended by Joan of Arc herself). And, of course, since Rheims is considered the “capital” of Champagne, we decided our visit to the city would not be complete without a stop at a Champagne producer.

Unfortunately for us, it turned out that only a few houses were open for visitors that day. Not knowing much about Champagne at the time, we randomly selected Pommery from Jon’s guidebook. When we got there, though, we learned that all of the English tours for the day had finished, so we decided to join the last tour, which was in French. While this did lead to some amusing moments as we creatively tried to interpret what the guide was saying, the tour was still an amazing experience. One of the most notable features of the Pommery winery is that they age their Champagne in massive underground cellars that are only accessible via a large 116 step staircase. So most of our tour actually took place underground. While I didn’t understand most of what was said about the process of making Champagne that day, I definitely left Pommery that day with a desire to learn more about what makes Champagne so special.

So, in the years since, what have I discovered about Champagne? Well, there are several factors that help to make this region so unique.

The first is that only wines that come from this strictly-defined region and are made using the traditional method or “méthode champenoise” can be called Champagne. In other words, all Champagne is sparkling wine, but not all sparkling wine is Champagne! (Although it is worth noting that there are some still wines produced in the region.) Sparkling wines (wines with carbonation or CO2 in them) are produced around the world – but only those from the Champagne region of France can be labeled as Champagne. You can’t even sell a perfume called Champagne (someone tried years ago to do just that), as it doesn’t meet the legal definition of what is Champagne!

The Champagne region is one of the coolest grape-growing areas in France and this plays an important role in influencing the style and taste of the wine. The cold weather is one of the reasons that there can be so much vintage variation in Champagne – in cooler years the grapes might have some trouble achieving full ripeness. So, in order to create a consistent house style, most Champagnes are made by blending wines of different vintages together.

Another unique quality of Champagne is that it is a blend in more ways than just of vintages. There are three major grape varieties grown in Champagne: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. The blend of these three grapes (one white – Chardonnay, and two red – Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier) helps to create the elegant, rich, sometimes austere, aromatic wine that is Champagne. The chalky soil, which drains well and is known to be a great soil for growing high-quality Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, is yet another important factor in Champagne.

You might be asking how it is possible for Champagne to be a blend of two red and 1 white grapes given that most Champagne that we see on the market would be categorized as a white wine. The process by which Champagne is made, which is central to understanding the style and quality of the region, is the key to how this can be achieved.

For many wine lovers, Thanksgiving isn’t so much about the turkey as it is about the chance to sample the latest vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau. Each year on the third Thursday in November, Beaujolais Nouveau, one of the very first French wines of the new vintage, is released onto the market. Although today the release of Beaujolais Nouveau is still met with enthusiasm, years ago the anticipation of the release date was so great that it became a contest as to who could sample the wine first.

Hype aside, there is a good deal to appreciate about the wines of Beaujolais and there is much more to the region than just Beaujolais Nouveau. While many wine classes and books will lump Beaujolais in with Burgundy (as it is located just south of Burgundy), the wines from each region are very different. Although as in Burgundy some Chardonnay and Aligoté is grown for white wines, the red wines of the region are made from Gamay, not Pinot Noir. The Gamay grape, which does its best in the granite soils of Beaujolais, tends to produce wines that are moderately colored, with fairly high acidity, moderate to soft tannins and aromas of strawberries and other red fruits.

The Gamay grape though is not the only factor that creates the different style of the wines of Beaujolais. One of the most important things that sets Beaujolais apart from other wine regions is the use of carbonic and semi-carbonic maceration in the wine-making process. Carbonic maceration is an anaerobic (without air) type of fermentation process. In it, whole berry clusters are placed in anaerobic environment (where there is no oxygen), and an intracellular fermentation takes places – you can think of it as if each grape is an individual fermentation tank. In practice, it is very difficult to do a 100% carbonic maceration as the weight of the grapes at the top will lead to broken grapes on the bottom which equals a more traditional fermentation. That’s why you see the term semi-carbonic maceration used. What this method does though is to produce a very fresh, brightly colored fruity red with very soft tannins and a fairly light body. This method is also known for making wines that have very distinctive notes of strawberries, bananas and cherries.

But carbonic maceration is only one part of understanding Beaujolais. The other important aspect of the region that you should learn is the different appellations and categories. We have already covered the Beaujolais Nouveau category. This is the wine that is made ready to drink mere weeks after the grapes were harvested. It is best drunk while still young and fresh – up to six months after release. However, there are still several appellations within Beaujolais that produce wines that are a bit more substantial than the Beaujolais Nouveau. There is the basic Beaujolais appellation which covers wines produced from some of the flatter vineyards in the southern part of the region. These wines typically have a bit more body and concentration compared to the Nouveaus. A step up from the basic Beaujolais is the Beaujolais-Villages appellation which covers wines that are made from the hillier vineyards which are mostly located in the northern part of the region. Beaujolais-Villages wines are usually a bit more age-worthy (1-3 years) and tend to have a bit more tannin to them compared to the basic Beaujolais.

Finally there are the Cru Beaujolais. These are the wines from the 10 named communes that are considered to be the best sites within the region for growing Gamay. They are: St Amour, Juliénas, Chenas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnié, Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly. In my opinion, these are some of the prettiest-sounding appellations in all of France. (I don’t know about you, but St Amour and Fleurie just scream Valentine’s Day wine to me.) It is generally accepted that Cru Beaujolais is the most age-worthy example of Beaujolais, sometimes even capable of aging 8-10 years. It is also considered to be the most full-bodied example of the region and there is usually less of the strawberry-banana notes and more cherry, cassis, earth and spice notes to these wines.

So, if you have only ever tried Beaujolais Nouveau, you can see that there is a world of Beaujolais just waiting to be tasted. And if you have never discovered Beaujolais before, then you definitely need to look for these wines on your next trip to the wine store. Beaujolais is one red that should almost always be served slightly chilled – make sure you put it in the fridge about 20 minutes before you want to serve it. With refreshing acidity and soft tannins, Beaujolais is a terrific summer red and would be a great addition to any summer gathering. Now your only decision will be what kind of Beaujolais to serve!

If a visit to Beaujolais is part of your next trip, click here to learn more about setting up a wine tour of the region. And don’t forget to visit www.franceguide.com, the official site of the French Government Tourist Office, for lots of great information on visiting all the wine regions of France.

One of my first major wine trips as a wine student was to the Alsace region of France.  I went with my friend Christine and we visited producers (and great restaurants) throughout the region.  It was an amazing trip: each vintner spent hours tasting with us through flights and flights of wines.  We toured small picturesque towns and lovely old vineyards.  I can’t imagine a more wonderful trip for a food and wine lover.

Alsace has one of the most interesting histories of all of the different wine regions of France.  Passed back and forth between French and German hands, it has a unique wine style that sets it apart from the rest of French wine.  Not only do you find the wines labeled by grape variety, but you also tend to find almost all un-oaked styles of wines and predominately white wines – pretty unique these days.  By law, all of the wines produced in Alsace are bottled in tall thin bottles called flutes d’Alsace.

The major grapes of the region are Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Muscat.  There is also a bit of Pinot Noir grown there, but not too much is exported to the US.  Sandwiched by the Vosges Mountains on one side and the Rhine river on the other, the region is very sunny and dry, which makes it a perfect climate for producing dry, powerful, aromatic and concentrated wines.  With a very long growing season, Alsace also has a tradition of making late-harvest wines that fit into two categories: Vendanges Tardives (these can range from dry to medium sweet) and Selection de Grains Nobles (these are very sweet, rich wines made from grapes that have been affected by botrytis).

In addition to the dry and sweet wines you can find in Alsace, the region also makes an excellent quality sparking wine called Crémant d’Alsace.  Producers can use a variety of grapes including Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris.

One other very interesting fact about Alsace is that there is a large number of organic and biodynamic grape growers in the region.  The dry, sunny climate lends itself nicely to this type of viticulture, but growers in this region are also extremely conscious of taking care of their vineyards and maintaining their unique terroirs.  And given that the grapes grown in the region are those that are particularly expressive of terroir, that’s a very good thing.

If I’ve given you the urge to visit this beautiful region for yourself, click here to learn more about wine tourism in Alsace. And don’t forget to visit www.franceguide.com, the official site of the French Government Tourist Office, for lots of great information on visiting all the wine regions of France.