No Comments Even if the weather doesn’t want to cooperate where you live, there is no denying that there is a whiff of spring in the air. Living here in North Carolina, spring has a tendency to come on the early side – in fact there have been years where I’ve spotted flowers poking through as early as late January! There’s something about the start of spring that always fills me with excitement and energy, and a good dose of anticipation.
There’s also just something about warm weather that makes me want to entertain. I’m sure it has a bit to do with the fact that as we get further into spring and summer the fresh vegetables and fruits at the local farmers markets just beg to be shared. But there’s also something easy about parties that involve the grill and letting kids play outside. Recently, we had a brief window of warm weather and so we used the opportunity to get together with some friends. The menu plan was simple – burgers, hot dogs, salad, chips, pasta salad, fruit and ice cream. Nothing really fancy, but with 10 little kids running around, the object was to be as family-friendly as possible!
Of course, wine is always a big part of parties in our house, no matter the occasion. It might sound a bit resentful of me to say that my friends expect to be served something interesting at my house, but in truth, I’m glad that they do. I think it is all too easy to get into a wine rut (it has happened to me before) and I’m happy to help prevent that from happening. So for this particular gathering, I chose to serve the Lafite Réserve Spéciale Bordeaux Blanc and the Mas de Guiot Vin de Pays du Gard. The first is a white Bordeaux made from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon and the second is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Both wines went over well, but much to my surprise, it was the white wine that was the big success. In the past, I have found that my guests were more likely to drink red wines over whites, so this was a bit of a departure and I one that I chalked up to two things – the warmer weather seemed to make people favor white wine and also the wine was extremely drinkable, both with or without food.
I’ve consistently found that people who like Sauvignon Blanc don’t seem to know that it is one of the grapes used in white Bordeaux. While it is true that there are many Bordeaux Blancs that are on the more expensive side, there are also a large number of very affordable and food-friendly examples; wines such as the Lafite Réserve Spéciale, Chateau Coucheroy or Chateau Bonnet spring to mind. The combination of the zesty flavors of the Sauvignon Blanc grape with the more mellow orange marmalade notes of the Sémillon grape makes for a versatile wine that is delicious with or without food. And because white Bordeaux is usually a bit fuller in body compared to other white wines, it stood up to the hamburgers and hot dogs just fine.
So if the weather has started to warm up where you live, think about the possibility of getting a group of friends together to celebrate the fact that spring is right around the corner. And if you are looking for a versatile, food-friendly white, I recommend you take a look through the White Bordeaux section of your favorite wine store. You might just find something to put a little spring in your step.
What's Going On in the World of French Wines
When you say the word, “Bordeaux,” in all likelihood, the image that springs to your mind is one of large chateaux and bottles of red wine. However, this wonderful region in France is also known for producing top-quality white wines – both of the dry and the sweet persuasion.
The white wine production region for Bordeaux is concentrated in two areas. The first area of major importance is the appellation of Entre-Deux-Mers, which is located between the Dordogne and the Garonne rivers. The second, is found on the south side of the Garonne. There you can find the appellations for both dry and sweet wines, including Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac.
One of the things I love most about French wine is how each region grows grapes or uses grapes in a blend that is fairly unique to that appellation. For Bordeaux, the wines are made from a blend of two (and sometimes three) grapes: Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc (with the third grape being Muscadelle). While Sauvignon Blanc is grown elsewhere in France, the “unique factor” here is that in Bordeaux it is blended with Semillon. And furthermore, while the production of dry wines can be found all over the world, the sweet wines of Bordeaux are in truly in a special class all by themselves – as you will shortly see.
Of the two major white wine grapes of the region, Sauvignon Blanc is undoubtedly the better known. Sauvignon Blanc is recognized for having a fairly high level of acidity and notes of grapefruit peel, zesty citrus fruits, passionfruits and gooseberries on both the nose and the palate. Semillon, on the other hand, has a more mellow profile. The level of acidity is a bit lower and the level of potential alcohol is much higher. The flavor profile is characterized by notes of honey, oranges, orange marmalade and figs. Up through the 1970s, Sémillon was extremely important for white wine production for both dry and sweet wines. But today, Sauvignon Blanc is increasingly dominating the blend for dry wines, while Semillon is the favored grape for the sweet wines.
One of the major reasons that Semillon is so important for the production of sweet wines in Bordeaux is its propensity for developing Botrytis cinerea, a special type of fungus that works to dehydrate the grapes, thus concentrating the sugar level (think of it as tasting the difference between raisins and grapes – the dehydrated grapes, i.e. the raisins, have much higher levels of sugar). When you go to ferment grapes that have been affected by botrytis, the yeasts can’t convert all of the sugar to alcohol, and thus there is residual sugar left in the wine making it a sweet wine. The Maritime climate of Bordeaux, with morning mists and high levels of humidity, is also perfect for developing botrytis. You will notice that the best areas for producing the sweet styles of wines, Sauternes, Barsac, and Ste-Croix-du-Mont to name three of the most famous, are clustered around the Garonne river.
The most famous appellation for the production of sweet wines in Bordeaux is Sauternes and the best-known producer in the region is Chateau d’Yquem. I love to relate the story that one glass of d’Yquem is equal to the production of one grapevine in the vineyard – production levels for the sweet wines of Sauternes is obviously very low! There are five communes that are entitled to use the name Sauternes on the label. They are: Barsac, Sauternes, Bommes, Fargues and Preignac. Barsac is entitled to its own appellation and so you will find some wines produced in the commune sold under the AOC Barsac and then other producers who choose to use the Sauternes appellation. Typically Barsac is thought to have a slightly lighter style compared to Sauternes.
Turning to the dry white wines of the region, there is a bit of variability in style and taste profile. Many of the whites made today are very fresh and fruity with a high percentage of Sauvignon Blanc. These typically are labeled as Bordeaux AOC and Entre-Deux-Mers. In contrast, the appellations of Pessac-Leognan and Graves are known for producing white wines that have been aged in oak and are made in a more full-bodied and age-worthy style. These two regions in particular are known for producing wines that can have a very distinctive mineral note that many believe is partly due to the special gravelly, well-draining soil of the area.
I often find that many people, especially those just starting to learn about wine, make the mistake of thinking that Bordeaux is a region that is only good for red wines. As you can see, there is quite a range of white wines that can be found as well. Whether you are looking for a dry wine or a sweet wine, Bordeaux is a region that should appeal to all wine drinkers, especially those looking for food-friendly wines. If you would like to taste more of the white wines of Bordeaux, there are a few on my top picks list that offer great value. For an example of Sauternes, I suggest trying the Castelnau de Suduiraut. And if you would like to taste a dry white from Bordeaux, look for either the Lafite Réserve Spéciale Bordeaux Blanc or the Michel Lynch Sauvignon Blanc. Happy Learning!
Thursday, January 22
Today is one of my all-time favorite holidays – the feast day devoted to the patron saint of winemakers, St. Vincent. While many winemakers mark the day, those in Burgundy are particularly well-known for their St. Vincent day celebrations. This year there will be parties taking place in a number of villages in Burgundy, including one in the village of Chardonnay (Yes, Virginia, there is a village called Chardonnay in Burgundy!).
My love of St. Vincent’s Day goes back many years to my days as a wine student preparing for the Wine and Spirit Education Trust’s Diploma at the International Wine Center in New York City. At some point in my studies of Burgundy, I came across some references to St. Vincent and how vignerons hold services and celebrations in his honor each year in hopes of being rewarded with a good year in the vineyards. I loved the idea of marking the beginning of a new year in the vineyards with a celebration of vintages past. While I didn’t have a vineyard, it occurred to me that I could create my own holiday honoring St. Vincent by throwing a tasting party for my friends and that our enjoyment of past vintages would also help me make room in my cellar for some new vintages.
My party was a huge success, in fact I think it remains one of my very favorite parties that I have ever thrown. I served a variety of foods – lots of different cheeses, shrimp, mini roast beef sandwiches, various desserts, vegetables, mini quiches – you name it. The idea was to give people an opportunity to pair a wide variety of wines (I think I opened somewhere between 50 and 60 bottles of wine) with a wide variety of foods. The most exciting part of the party though, was that I had the chance to open so many different wines for my friends – some of whom tasted grape varieties that day that were completely new to them. While it wasn’t an educational tasting per se, I did want my friends to be able to learn about wine that day in a fun and relaxed way.
So today, in honor of St. Vincent, I encourage you to do one of two things. Either open up a bottle of wine tonight that you have never tried before, or invite some friends over and celebrate St. Vincent with a tasting party of your own. Whatever you do, though, be sure to say a few words wishing all of the vintners around the world good luck as they embark upon the 2009 vintage. And as for me, I’m planning on calling up a few of my neighbors to see if they want to stop by for some drinks after work. I think I’ll open up a few different French wines made with grapes that most people are probably not familiar with, such as Chenin Blanc, Colombard, Gewurztraminer, Mourvèdre, Semillon, Ugni Blanc and Viognier. If some of these grapes are new to you, you can check through my top picks list by grape variety to find specific wines. Enjoy!
2008
When it comes to grape descriptors, my favorite of all time is the one used to describe the more herbaceous and aromatic side of Sauvignon Blanc: cat’s pee on a gooseberry bush. Definitely a creative way to describe the smell of the grape!
But don’t let this descriptor deter you – Sauvignon Blanc is a white grape that produces one of the most refreshing and food-friendly wines around. Appearance-wise, Sauvignon Blanc is known for typically ranging from a pale lemon yellow to a medium intense yellow, and can sometimes have a greenish tinge on rim. It is usually fairly intensely aromatic with primary aromas that range from green beans, asparagus, herbaceous, grassy, “flinty”, gooseberry, lemon, lime, grapefruit, and passion fruit. When aged in young oak barrels, one can find aromas and flavors of spices, vanilla, honey, toast and coconut on the wine. On the palate, Sauvignon Blanc can run the gamut, producing wines that are light, medium and full-bodied with medium to medium plus alcohol. Usually Sauvignon Blancs are know for having a fairly high level of acidity, part of why the wines are so refreshing and food-friendly.
While it can be found in several different appellations around France, the two major regions know for producing spectacular Sauvignon Blancs are the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. Within the Loire Valley, the famous AOCs for Sauvignon Blanc production are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. The wines from these two villages are noted for their crisp acidity and intense aromatics, and especially for having a strong mineral character and a stony quality. Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc is a bit different as it is usually blended with the Semillon grape, which makes the wines broader on the palate and more full-bodied. This blend of grapes is used to produce both dry and sweet wines that are capable of being aged for a long period of time.
There are numerous “classic pairings” for the Sauvignon Blanc grape including fresh, young goat cheese and, when blended with Semillon and produced in a sweet style, foie gras. However, I have found that there are few dishes that don’t go well with this grape. Fresh, lively and citrusy, Sauvignon Blanc is great for sipping on its own, but also for pairing with fish, chicken and turkey dishes and it is also a great choice for vegetable dishes such as a stir fry or a vegetable quiche. There are several Sauvignon Blancs to choose from on my list of wine picks, so grab one to open tonight with your dinner – I’m sure you will enjoy it!
I love this time of year. The farmer’s markets around here are hopping with activity and fresh produce. Every Saturday morning, Peter and I head over to one of the local markets to buy our groceries. While the CSA/farm share program we belong to covers a lot of our veggie needs, there are still a lot of things to buy. This week’s market bounty included several pints of organic blueberries, a quart of organic strawberries (which are on their way out), a dozen eggs, 1 container of Yukon gold potatoes, 6 ears of corn and 6 tomatoes.
As this was one of our few weekends at home, I was hard pressed to ignore the call of the kitchen. I had picked up some chicken breasts at the grocery store a few days back, so it seemed a good idea to build the meal around those. One of my grandfather’s mottos regarding food was “plain, but tasty” and sometimes, when you are dealing with very fresh produce, I find that going the simple route is not only easiest, but best.
First, I marinated the chicken in a little olive oil, white wine vinegar, salt, pepper and a bunch of different herbs from the my garden including lime basil, purple basil, tarragon, and thyme. Next up, the potatoes. When I lived up in NY, I bought potatoes often at the farmer’s market in Union Square, but this is actually the first time I have tried them from the Durham market, so I was pretty excited to use them. I decided to roast the potatoes in the oven with olive oil, salt, pepper and a mixture of parsley, tarragon and thyme – I figured using some of the same herbs from the chicken would help to unify some of the flavors of the meal. Since I still had some peas from last week’s CSA, I figured that we should go ahead and have those tonight, too. So Bill shelled the peas, and I tossed them in some boiling water for just a few minutes. We decided to also cook 2 ears of corn and since Bill was grilling the chicken, we figured we would grill the corn as well.
Once dinner was just about ready, I went into the wine fridge to see what I could find. I wasn’t exactly sure what I was in the mood for and what would go best with dinner. After pulling out a few options and considering whether or not to have a white, a red or a rosé with the meal, I finally chanced upon the Barons de Rothschild Réserve Spéciale Bordeaux Blanc from the 2006 vintage. Bordeaux Blancs, which are typically a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, are very food-friendly in my opinion, and sadly, not a frequently considered option.
It was indeed a good match. The BdR Bordeaux Blanc is very balanced with moderate acidity and pleasant citrus fruit aromas and flavors. It complimented the herbed chicken and was a very good match for the buttery, creamy potatoes. The freshness of the peas gave them a tangy, almost herbal flavor, and the roundness from the Semillon coupled with the grapefruit notes from the Sauvignon Blanc made for a pleasing combination in the mouth.
Given the abundance of berries, I opted to make a blueberry and strawberry cobbler for dessert. And while one wouldn’t usually think to pair a Bordeaux Blanc with a fruit dessert, because of the lemon juice and the lemon zest in the recipe, the wine that was left in our glasses after dinner was still very enjoyable through dessert.
