What's Going On in the World of French Wines

In my previous post on Bordeaux last month, I covered some of the major appellations for white wines, both dry and sweet. This month’s post will concentrate on some of the red wines that Bordeaux is so very famous for.
Let’s first start out with a little about the red grapes that are grown in Bordeaux. There are three major varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. There are also two lesser-known grapes that are sometimes used in the blend as well: Petit Verdot and Malbec. A third grape, Carmenère, used to be part of the blend, but after Bordeaux was hit by phylloxera in the late 1800s, much of it was not replanted and so today it is very rarely used.
While Cabernet Sauvignon is considered by many to be the King of Bordeaux, it is in fact, the second-most planted red grape in the region. The most-planted red grape of Bordeaux is actually Merlot. Much of this has to do with the soils that are found in Bordeaux. On the well-draining gravelly soils that dot the region, Cabernet Sauvignon is typically the favored grape. But for the cooler, damper soils that are found throughout much of the rest of Bordeaux, Merlot has proved easier to grow. Merlot tends to tolerate dampness better than Cabernet Sauvignon and it also ripens earlier. The differences between these two grapes can be very helpful in a region with a lot of wet weather and the possibility of rain during the harvest months.
In fact, while some interpret blends as a way of camouflaging a grape’s limitations, another way of looking at a blend is that the sum is greater than the parts. Not only do Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon act almost as insurance policies for each other by ripening at different times and having a preference for different soil types, but they also work to complement each other in a blend. Merlot adds a softness and a fullness to Cabernet Sauvignon while Cabernet’s acidity and tannins can be used to prevent Merlot from being too plush and lacking in structure. Each of the other grapes, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec have something to add as well and the combination of all of these grapes ideally works to create a wine that is well-balanced, long-lived and harmonious on the palate.
As we discussed in the first post about Bordeaux, the region’s appellations can be thought of as concentric circles. The largest circle for red wines would be the AOC Bordeaux – think of it as a regional appellation that encompasses almost all of Bordeaux. It accounts for approximately 40% of all red wines produced in Bordeaux. A slightly smaller circle is the AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, which has a minimum alcohol that is a half a percent higher than AOC Bordeaux, a slightly higher aging requirement of a minimum of 12 months and is made from selected spots within the appellation.
Now here is where the circles get a bit confusing as there are lots of smaller appellations that are well worth discussing. This post will focus on the Left Bank, or the west side of the Gironde where we find the very important appellation of the Médoc. The Médoc is perhaps the most famous home for Cabernet Sauvignon in the world. With its well-draining soils with their high gravel content and a climate moderated by close proximity to the ocean, the Médoc is well-suited to growing high quality Cabernet Sauvignon. The Médoc is also very famous because it is the main subject of the historical Classification of 1855 (Graves was included as well, but we are going to discuss that area separately in another post). This classification of the chateaux on the Left Bank was put together by the merchants in Bordeaux and the rankings were based mainly on price. Chateaux were grouped into growths, going from First Growths (or Premier Crus) to Fifth Growths (Cinquième Crus). While many of the chateaux that were classified back in 1855 have ceased to exist, for the most part, the 1855 classification is still used in Bordeaux and there has only been one formal change to the list in 1973, when Château Mouton-Rothschild was changed from a Second Growth to a First Growth. It is important to note though, that the classification of 1855 is not part of the AOC system and in many ways, getting to know the different appellations is much more important than memorizing the entire list of classified growths.
Returning to our idea of concentric circles, within the Médoc is the Haut-Médoc, an appellation made up of vineyards located in several communes that are not entitled to their own commune AOC. Many of these wines can represent excellent buys for Bordeaux lovers. Château Corconnac, one of the wines from my list, is a great example of an affordable and very delicious Haut-Médoc wine.
Finally, within the Médoc we reach the most important Left Bank appellations – the communes of St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, and Margaux, which are home to the majority of those chateaux from the 1855 classification. St. Estèphe is known for producing full-bodied, but rather austere red wines with high levels of acidity that are typically very age-worthy. Two of the most well-known producers are Ch. Montrose and Cos d’Estournel. Pauillac is perhaps one of the most famous communes in the Médoc as it is home to three of the five first growths – Ch. Lafite-Rothschild, Ch. Latour and Ch. Mouton-Rothschild. The wines of Pauillac are very powerful, concentrated and long-lived and especially known for their distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon character and notes of cassis and cedar.
The next commune, that of St-Julien, is perhaps a bit underrated compared to the others. It typically produces wines that are a bit more subtle and approachable. Chateaux such as Léoville-Las-Cases, Léoville-Poyferré and Léoville-Barton, Gruaud-Larose, and Ducru-Beaucaillou are some of the best-known producers from St-Julien. Finally, we reach the commune of Margaux, the home of the well-known Ch. Margaux as well as Ch. Palmer, Ch. Lascombes and Ch. Brane-Cantenac. Wines from Margaux are considered to be some of the most perfumed and silky of the Médoc. While many will argue that Margaux has experienced more ups and downs than other communes, when the 1855 Classification was originally put together, Margaux had more properties included than any other commune. Fortunately for Cabernet Sauvignon (and Merlot) lovers everywhere, it is back on the upswing today.
We’ll continue in another post with some of the other smaller communes in Bordeaux that can offer wine lovers a good buy, but I thought it would be important to cover some of the most historical and well-known appellations in this post about the Left Bank. As always, let me know if you have any questions and comments!

When we talk about the most important grape varieties in the wine world, there is no doubt that when it comes to red grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon is considered the King. Few grapes have proven as age-worthy, as consistently reliable and as downright delicious as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Thanks to work in the late 1990s by grape geneticist Dr. Carole Meredith and the UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology, we can trace the origins of Cabernet Sauvignon to a chance meeting in a vineyard in Southwest France between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc that occurred sometime during the 17th century (sounds romantic, right?). Although there had been some speculation that Cabernet Sauvignon had more ancient origins, there was also a theory (which the DNA research confirmed), that the aromas that Cabernet Sauvignon shares in common with Cabernet Franc (lead pencil, tea leaves, black currants) and with Sauvignon Blanc (grassy, herbal) pointed to some sort of relationship between the three grapes. But regardless of what Cabernet Sauvignon has in common with Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, it is a distinctly unique grape that has, over time, outshown its parents.

There is a bit of a chicken and egg debate in the wine world about Cabernet Sauvignon. Is it so popular because it is fairly easy to grow (thus meaning that there is so much of it out there that we can’t avoid it), or is it because we like it so much that producers around the world have sought out ways to grow as much of it as they can? Most likely, the answer is a little bit of both. In terms of marketing, Cabernet Sauvignon is tough to beat. With a high level of name recognition and a top reputation, most producers and wine drinkers hold it in very high esteem. And many of its viticultural characteristics make it very easy to love. Cabernet Sauvignon is a very thick-skinned, hardy grape with good disease-resistance and the ability to grow well in a variety of soils and climates (although it does have a preference for well-draining soil and moderate climates).

Cabernet Sauvignon is, like Chardonnay, very much a winemaker’s grape. It requires a good deal of skill to handle Cabernet’s tannic nature and while it has a great affinity for oak, the integration of Cabernet Sauvignon and oak also demands a producer’s full attention. Cabernet Sauvignon produces wines that are medium to full-bodied, tannic, high in acid and very capable of extensive aging. Common primary aromas and flavors (going from cool climate to warm climate characteristics) are cinnamon, menthol, eucalyptus, mint, violet, berry, plum, blackcurrant, cassis, black olive, prune, licorice. As Cabernet Sauvignon ages, you will typically find notes of earth, tobacco, cigar-box, milk chocolate, tobacco, coffee, mocha, lead pencil, herbal tea, and leather on the nose and palate.

As mentioned above, Cabernet Sauvignon’s birthplace was most likely somewhere in the Southwest of France, but it did not take long for it to spread, and with it, a reputation for producing high quality wines. The region considered most synonymous with Cabernet Sauvignon is, of course Bordeaux. Although most Bordeaux wines are not made with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (most are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc), it is still considered by most (especially those on the Left Bank in Bordeaux) to be the most important of the three. Cabernet Sauvignon is also grown in the Loire and these days, throughout the South of France as well. It is what the grape can do in Bordeaux, though, that has really set the standard for Cabernet Sauvignon around the world. The gravelly soil of the left bank of Bordeaux is, in particular, considered ideal for growing top quality Cabernet and growers around the world, notably in California, Australia and Italy, have looked to achieve similar results.

If you are looking to get a sense of what Cabernet Sauvignon tastes like, I suggest you taste through any of the following wines from my list: Arrogant Frog “Lily Pad Red” Vin de Pays d’Oc, Chateau Corconnac Haut-Médoc, Chateau de Parenchère Cuvée Raphael Bordeaux Supérieur, Chateau La Maroutine Bordeaux Rouge, Chateau Machorre Bordeaux Supérieur, Grand Bateau Rouge, La Croix Bonis St. Estephe, Mas de Guiot Vin de Pays du Gard and Mouton Cadet Bordeaux Rouge. You can also have some fun by picking out some wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon grown around the world and comparing how similar and how different Cabernet from various regions can taste. And, of course, given how ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon can be, you also could buy some wine and save it for a few years to see for yourself what happens to the aroma and taste of Cabernet Sauvignon as it ages. I’d suggest finding some Bordeaux wines from 2005 to use in your experiment. The 2005 was a fantastic vintage in Bordeaux and while tasting beautifully now, these are also wines that will age and drink well over the next 5 to 8 years (and more for the top wines).

So don’t be cruel, grab a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon and give a toast to the king. It’ll make your heart (or at the very least your palate) sing.

I just got back from Chicago last night where I had the pleasure of attending the Windy City Wine Festival. I have to say, I love Chicago – I think it is one of my all-time favorite cities. The people are friendly and the restaurant scene is fantastic – in fact, I think I would have to say that some of the best meals I have ever had in my life have been in Chicago. Years ago, as a young foodie, I ate at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago – to this day, that remains one of the most memorable food experiences I’ve ever had!

The festival kicked off on Friday evening in the beautiful Daley Bicentennial Park. The Wines of France tent was pouring 12 different wines and the Country Wines of France booth featured a selection of 6 different wines. All of the wines at our table were under $25 and each one is a terrific example of the kind of value and quality that you can find in French wines these days. For my first seminar I chose to feature four of the wines from the Wines of France table: Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé 2006, Gustave Lorentz Pinot Gris 2005, Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages 2007, and Domaine Charvin A Côté 2006.

All four wines had something very interesting to say. The Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé was lovely and a terrific example of a classic Burgundian Chardonnay. The Lorentz Pinot Gris had a softer, fleshier feel in the mouth compared to the Jadot, and was one of the most popular wines available at our table. The Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages was also very true to type and gave people an opportunity to learn about Beaujolais beyond Nouveau. The Domaine Charvin A Côté was one of the more interesting wines. A Cote translates into “sideways,” and this was Laurent Charvin’s humorous take on the movie of the same name. A blend of Grenache and Merlot and bottled with a screw cap, this wine was an excellent example of the dynamic and innovative wines being made in France.

After my seminar was over, some of us had dinner at a wonderful restaurant called Naha. I sampled a Yukon potato gnocchi starter that was excellent, and my main course was a pork chop that was topped with fennel pollen of all things (check out the picture!). I paired the gnocci with a glass of Henriot Brut NV Champagne that was outstanding – you know, every time I drink Champagne I always think to myself that I just don’t drink nearly enough of it. Even though I always recommend Champagne as a very versatile wine for pairing with food, I don’t always follow my own advice, and I am probably more likely to pair a dish with a still wine than a sparkling wine. But the Henriot was so delicious – it went better with the pork chop than the glass of Graves (white Bordeaux) I had selected! Dessert, however, was definitely the highlight of the meal. Naha serves very elaborate (and yummy) desserts – I tried their version of a clafouti and one of my dinner companions chose their triple chocolate dessert. While the clafouti was good, the chocolate was out of this world – truly an amazing mix of flavors and textures.
The next day before the festival we headed to lunch at Bin 36, a terrific place that is a wine shop, wine bar and restaurant. I have been there before, but had never eaten lunch there and wow, what a treat. We started with a plate of 6 different cheeses (I don’t know if I have mentioned before how much I love cheese, so just in case you missed it, I LOVE cheese) which included a buffalo mozzarella, a cheese called Persian Feta, a fresh goat cheese from Champaign, IL, the Mona – a sheep’s milk cheese, a Regal de Bourgogne Raisin, the Bandage Wrapped Cheddar and finally a 6 year Cheddar from Spain.

They were all very good, but the Persian Feta, a cheese from Victoria, Australia was absolutely outstanding (to our waitress who suggested it – THANKS!!). The Regal de Bourgogne Raisin from Champagne, France was also a standout. Pairing wines with a plate like this can be a bit tricky, so instead of worrying too much about what would go best, I decided to order something that I was in the mood to try, regardless of my food (I also had their special flatbread of the day – kind of like a salad on top of pizza). So I went with a flight of four Spanish reds. GASP – not French, you might be asking? I drink an awful lot of French wine, but I also like to try wines from other countries – you could call it a bit of checking out the competition. And, for what it is worth, one of the reds is made by a French winemaker who has wineries in both France and Spain.

After lunch, we all headed over to the festival where I gave a seminar on the Country Wines of France. This was a fun opportunity to highlight some of the different Vin de Pays wines made in France. The four wines for the tasting were: 2007 Domaine des Cassagnoles, 2007 Domaine De Pouy, 2006 Lafage Cote Sud Rouge, 2006 d’Oupia Les Hérétiques. The first two wines (the Cassagnoles and the De Pouy) were fresh whites from the Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne and bottled with screw caps. They were both excellent – fresh, lively and citrusy – and a steal at under $8. The two reds, the Lafage Cote Sud and the Les Hérétiques were also delicious with the Cote Sud showing more fresh red berry notes and the Les Hérétiques a bit earthy and rustic.

After the festival, I headed back to the airport (by the way, I flew in and out of Midway on Southwest this time and wow, was it EASY! No delays and hardly any traffic at all!). I have to say that I could have used a few more days in the Windy City – I didn’t get to hit the Art Institute or Navy Pier and I sadly had NO time to go shopping (my favorite shoe store is in Chicago). But hopefully, I will be back before too long!

And, as always, if you have a great tip on a wonderful spot for wine and food in Chicago or in your neck of the woods, don’t hesitate to share it. Drop me a line!

I recently had the opportunity to speak with Nancy Rugus, who is the Director of the Americas for Compagnie Medocaine Des Grands Crus, a Bordeaux negociant. She was kind enough to answer a few questions for me about a subject near and dear to her heart – French Wine!

1. How did you get started in the wine business?

I fell in love with food and wine. I was teaching in the NYC public schools and took a leave of absence to start selling wine in NYC for a wine division at one of the larger distributors. I had no experience in the wine trade but have always enjoyed my work and never went back to teaching.

2. Tell us a little bit about the Compagnie Medocaine Des Grands Crus.

Compagnie Médocaine des Grands Crus is a Bordeaux negociant that has experienced steady growth over the past 5 to 10 years. We think of ourselves as a distribution company and not just as a trader of wines. We take a long-term perspective, building strong partnerships throughout the USA.

3. What is your favorite French region and why?

Well of course, it’s Bordeaux. Bordeaux consistently produces quality wines that often can have long aging ability. It is also a region of great diversity with something for everyone - not only in terms of price but also in terms of style. I have had some of the most wonderful experiences there. The French have always shown me nothing but the warmest reception and hospitality – not necessarily what many Americans realize about them.

4. What is the most memorable French wine that you have ever tasted?

I’ve had many great wines so it is very difficult to answer this question. The most memorable would be a few from the St Julien appellation that I had at a Marvin Overton tasting some years ago, coming from the late 1800’s. The wines were still fresh although short lived and this experience gives me certain bragging rights. But I would have to say that almost any really good wine that is perfectly ready to drink can only give great pleasure.

5. What is your favorite food and French wine pairing that might surprise people?

Simple Roast Chicken with a well-balanced Bordeaux wine. I often get pleasure from the simplest combinations and some of the best memories I have of wine and food are not just about the wine & food, but the total experience – sharing it with other friends and family.

6. What three wines would you have to have with you if you were stranded on a desert island?

A great Sauternes - very complex, yet fruity and elegant wine; a great Bordeaux - young or with a little age, different sensations but all giving instant pleasure (not bad on a desert island); and certainly Champagne - the bubbles always make me feel wonderful!

7. What French wine do you drink most frequently?

I love Bordeaux and drink it very often - but also drink Burgundy, especially the whites which can be exceptional. I also enjoy a glass of Champagne as an aperitif as often as I can.

8. What do you see as the biggest change in Bordeaux in the last 10 years?

The fact that there are almost no bad vintages any more. Some vintages may not produce wines you would want to put down and age for a long time, but overall, there really haven’t been any bad vintages in recent years.

9. What is the biggest misconception Americans have about French wine?

I think many people are intimidated, thinking that it is complicated to understand the wines. That is mostly because the varietal name is rarely used in France and American consumers are used to seeing Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc.

I am thrilled to announce that Rosie Cox of Lexington, NC has won the Wines of France Sweepstakes. Rosie was randomly selected from more than 12,500 entrants and will be taking her husband, Donald (who also entered the sweepstakes!) with her to France this September. I am so excited for both of them! It is also a special coincidence to see someone from Lexington win this fabulous trip! Lexington, NC is where my husband and I were married. (And we had our wedding reception at a winery in Lexington.)

Rosie and Donald will be traveling to both Bordeaux and Burgundy which will give them a chance to experience two of the most important and historic wine regions in the world. What are some of the things that they will discover? In Bordeaux they will get to see the harvesting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes for the red wines, and Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes for the white wines. While in Burgundy, they will have the opportunity to watch as winemakers make wines from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. The opportunity to learn about all of these different grapes is a wonderful experience for a wine lover – it will change the way they think about wine forever!

Bordeaux and Burgundy offer such a wonderful compare-and-contrast for someone learning about wine. In Bordeaux, you get to see the famous large chateaux and learn about how winemakers skillfully blend several different grapes together to create the full-bodied, rich and age-worthy red wines of the region. In Burgundy, on the other hand, you will find small producers who create silky and elegant reds from only the Pinot Noir grape, and powerful and crisp whites from Chardonnay alone. Each region has set a style for wines that is emulated around the world. And while there are definitely winemaking techniques that are used in both regions, there are also several practices in the cellar that are unique to each, and Rosie and Donald will have a chance to experience them all.

Rosie and Donald have promised to share their experiences here on my blog so that we can all learn from their harvest adventure and see for ourselves what makes French wine so special. I can’t wait for their trip – although I am sure that Rosie is even more excited about it than I am!

Oh, and one last piece of advice for Rosie and Donald – make sure that you take very comfortable and study (and hopefully waterproof) shoes with you. Also, don’t forget to pack some old shirts, too. Winery work is fun, but it can get pretty messy!

Recently at a dinner with another couple, I watched as two different bottles of wine were opened — because he won’t drink white (ever) and she won’t drink red (ever). Now, I try very hard to get across the point to wine lovers everywhere that it really is OK to like what you like. I do understand that not everyone will love all the different types of wines that are out there. But one of the things that struck me was how much this couple was missing out on because they don’t ever share their wine experiences. It also made me think about how there is a big difference between having a preference for one type of wine and completely limiting yourself.

Years ago, I went out on a date with a guy, we’ll call him Roger, who took me to a very upscale steakhouse. As we sat down and the waitress handed us the menus, I eagerly began perusing the wine list. As I have said before, one of my favorite combinations is a steak and a great Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine, but I’m flexible – there are also a lot of other tasty pairings out there. As this restaurant was known for its terrific red selection, I figured that whether or not it ended up being a Cab, we’d find a good red to enjoy. Not wanting to make the choice without his input, I asked Roger what kind of wine he was interested in having.

And then he said it. He actually said, “Oh, I don’t drink red wine.” I believe I replied something to the effect of, “well, what about a red that isn’t very tannic or a really light red wine?” but I can’t be sure – I think I was so surprised by his opposition to the idea of red wine. Roger’s reply: “No, sorry, I don’t drink red wine, ever. I don’t like it.” No amount of discussion could persuade Roger to give any red wine on the list a try – I couldn’t believe it! There was no pleasurable discussion to be had about the bottle of wine we wouldn’t be sharing, no shared enjoyment of the meal. I believe we settled for wines by the glass, but at that point it was clear to me that there would definitely NOT be a second date…

I frequently tell the Roger story to illustrate the fact that when it comes to wine, it is very important to be open to trying new things (and to sharing). There are folks out there who stay away from red wines because they are headache prone – that I can understand. And I also respect people who tell me that they find some red wines too dry and bitter. But what I think is great is when these same people decide that they are willing to keep an open mind and try another red, that maybe that one won’t be too dry or too tannic for their taste. These folks have realized that you can’t lump all red wines into the same group: just because you might not like Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t mean that you will also hate Pinot Noir.

We all have our preferences when it comes to wine – even if we don’t know it. There are definitely certain types of wines I prefer over others – as well as certain styles of winemaking that I favor. But that doesn’t mean that, if presented with a wine that probably isn’t “my type”, I will refuse it. Instead, I think that it is really important to try the wine – in my book it is a learning experience to taste everything – the good, the bad and even the ugly!

There are also so many different variables that come into play when tasting a wine. The temperature of the wine, the temperature of the room, the food being served, the company – heck some people will even tell you that the music being played will have an impact. I have one friend who talks about how he fell in love with a wine on vacation only to come home and try the same wine and find that he didn’t really like it all that much. Sometimes our frame of mind (hello, he was on vacation – everything tastes better on vacation!) will even play a role.

So deciding that you will only drink a certain white wine for the rest of your life is not only boring, but limiting too – just think about all the different wines out there you will be missing out on – there are literally thousands! So if you don’t like the heavier, more tannic reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah, then consider trying a lighter, less tannic red like a Beaujolais made from the Gamay grape. Or try a Pinot Noir – many times people will find that Pinots have a more delicate structure with less drying tannins. And if some reds are too dry for your taste, then consider experimenting with a blend of Syrah and Grenache which you will find in a Cotes du Rhone. When it comes to whites, if you don’t love the oaky and vanilla notes found on many Chardonnays, then look for a Pinot Blanc from Alsace. That’s a white that is very food-friendly, but not too dry or acidic. If you are looking for something a bit more full-bodied, then try a perfumy Viognier from the South of France. And if you love high acid whites with floral notes but want a change from Riesling or Gewurztraminer, then try a mouth-watering Chenin Blanc from the Loire. There are so many different wines out there to choose from!

I don’t know whatever happened to Roger, by the way. Hopefully at some point he decided to take a chance and try red wine again. I’d be willing to bet that some red wine out there somewhere might make him realize that the color of a wine isn’t a reason to refuse to taste it. Luckily for me, though, I ended up finding a guy who is always game for tasting any wine I want to open up, no matter what color or how unusual it might be.

OK, this might seem a little bit off-topic, but bear with me. Did anyone happen to see the article in the NY Times Dining and Wine section July 9th on the quest for the perfect chocolate chip cookie recipe? I don’t know if I have ever read another article in a newspaper that was quite so motivating or drool-worthy! I don’t know about you, but I will DEFINITELY be baking chocolate chip cookies within the next few days…

But I digress…One of the points of the article that did actually get me to thinking about wine had to do with the idea of letting the batter “age.” Apparently letting the chocolate chip cookie batter sit for a period of time (somewhere between 24 and 36 hours) before cooking can give you a better and more flavorful cookie. And that is, of course, when the little wine geek inside of me said, “Ah ha! See, chocolate chip cookies and wine DO have a lot in common!”

Aging cookie dough is a lot like aging wine it turns out. If you are like me, you’ve probably never aged your cookie dough prior to baking it (in my house I am lucky if we have any dough left to bake – eating the dough is our favorite part) and, like me, you didn’t think you were missing anything. But after reading this article, you can bet that I will be experimenting with aging the dough before cooking it – especially if it makes a richer and more flavorful cookie.

Which brings us, naturally, to wine. How many of you out there drink older wines? Research indicates that most of us drink our wines within LESS than 24 hours of buying them. Now, there really isn’t anything wrong with that – in fact, most wine experts will tell you that much of what is available on the market these days is designed to be enjoyed while youthful. Winemakers realize that most folks aren’t aging their wines – heck most folks don’t have wine cellars – and so wines today are a bit different from those made fifty years ago. But, that being said, there is something to the idea of aging a wine to give it time to become (like the chocolate chip cookie) richer and more flavorful.

There are many things that happen to wines as they age – red wines get a bit paler in color and move from being in the ruby red family to a garnet/brick color; white wines typically get a bit darker, going from lemon yellow to more of a golden color. Aromas also change. In “wine speak,” we say that the primary fruity aromas of a wine give way to complex and developed secondary aromas. So, for instance, a Cabernet Sauvignon might have notes of blackcurrants and vanilla while young, and then show a nose of cedar, leather and tobacco when older.

While most people think that red wines are the only wines that you should age, there are also white wines that are age-worthy. Wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Pinot Noir are several examples of red grapes worth aging, while wines made from Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Riesling are great examples of age-worthy whites. Grape tannins and oak tannins, which can be found in both red and white wines, generally benefit from some time in bottle. Letting a highly tannic wine age will allow the tannins to soften over time and make them less astringent and drying in the mouth. This will make the wine taste much more mellow and soft – you might notice wine tasters talk about aging allowing for the tannins to become integrated into the wine – this is part of what they are talking about.

To see for yourself what aging can do for a wine, I usually recommend that you purchase a half case to a case of a good quality red wine. One to try from my list would be the La Croix Bonis. If you don’t have a wine cellar or a wine cooler, I would find a dark, cool spot in the back of a closet or in a basement where you can keep your wine. Mark the date you bought the wine on each bottle and then using either six or twelve month increments, mark each bottle with a “to be opened” date. You can even send yourself an email calendar reminder. You can taste the first bottle as soon as you buy the wine, then try another in six months and another six months after that. Make sure you take a few notes as you taste so that you can look back and compare each wine. I will guarantee that you will notice the wine changing over time and that this little experiment will give you a different appreciation for the aging process. And now, if you will excuse me, I think I am going to go do some experimenting with that chocolate chip cookie recipe.

The July 4th Holiday is just around the corner – as is Bastille Day, July 14th, the national holiday in France that commemorates the storming of the Bastille and the end of the French monarchy. As a history major in college, I have always felt that historical holidays are a time for celebrations. Independence Day, in my opinion, is usually one of the more enjoyable days of the year (I also adore Halloween, but we’ll get to that in October). What is better than picnics, fireworks, and summertime fun? Almost all of my favorite foods (tomatoes, corn, blueberries and watermelon) are at their peak, and who doesn’t love a holiday that usually involves brownies? (OK, maybe this is just in my family, but somehow brownies decorated with red, white and blue icing were always served as a part of dessert…) But of course, with any holiday or celebration, there is always the important question: what wine should I serve with the meal?

For those of you who might answer that beer would be the appropriate and patriotic beverage of choice on July 4th, you might be interested to know that Thomas Jefferson supposedly drank Madeira to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence. Madeira, a wonderful fortified wine produced on the Island of Madeira, is definitely one of my favorite types of fortified wines. Produced in styles both dry and sweet, Madeira was particularly in vogue back in the late 1700s and was consumed by many of the founding fathers. The addition of the extra alcohol (the fortification part) helped to make wines like Port, Sherry and Madeira a bit more stable for the long journey across the Atlantic.

But while Jefferson and his friends were fans, I would argue that it is probably not the ideal wine for serving at your July 4th picnic. Perhaps you could consider offering your guests a sip with their brownies at the end of the meal, but pairing Madeira with fried chicken or hamburgers is not the way to go on a hot summer’s day. Instead, I suggest that you choose another of our founding fathers’ favorites – the wines of Bordeaux or Burgundy. Along with fortified wines like Sherry and Madeira, Thomas Jefferson and Ben Franklin both drank a good deal of French wine. Indeed, Jefferson was famous for his purchases of large volumes of French wine and also for his desire to establish a winery at his home in Monticello.

Luckily for us, the 2005 vintage of Bordeaux was particularly good and there are a tremendous number of affordable and delicious wines available right now. Typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the wines of Bordeaux are usually elegant and full-bodied without being too soft and alcoholic. While some are a bit on the tannic side and will benefit from years of aging, there are many that are terrific for drinking right now. And if you open one and find it a bit tight, I suggest pouring it into a glass decanter to help it open up a bit more quickly. So if you are serving a selection of grilled meats or hamburgers, a beef tenderloin or beef kabobs, I would definitely recommend that you look for a wine from the Bordeaux region of France.

If a mixture of shrimp, salmon or chicken will be on your menu for the Fourth, then I would turn towards the wines of one of Jefferson’s other favorite regions, Burgundy. With reds made from Pinot Noir and whites from Chardonnay, Burgundy is a region that produces wines that typically have a good level of acidity to them, which makes them extremely food-friendly and refreshing. Additionally, many of the Chardonnays from Burgundy are aged in older oak barrels or only a portion of new French oak barrels, which makes them a lot less heavy and oaky than many of the New World Chardonnays available these days.

If you consult the wine list on the site, you will find a number of recommendations for affordable red and white wines from both wine regions that will really get your holiday party hopping. So whether you are celebrating Bastille Day or Independence Day or even both, enjoy your celebration and just make sure that you keep the fireworks away from the wine….

Recently we packed up and headed to Gulf Coast of Florida for a weekend getaway/family reunion. The trip was, for summer travel, surprisingly easy, and the beach was fun for everyone – even me with my long-standing bizarre shark phobia. While out touring the area one day, I happened upon a local market with quite an extensive selection of wines. As I have said before, I don’t think I have ever been able to leave a wine store empty handed, especially when I see something I haven’t tried before.

Discovering wine on vacation can sometime be a bit risky, but I’m always up for trying something new. In this case, it was a most interesting wine, the Les Deux Terroirs, from Alexandre Sirech. With its very attractive and modern label, it was a bit of a surprise to see that the wine was actually classified as a vin de table, or table wine, according to the French wine classification system. In the past we haven’t seen a whole lot of French table wines here in the US, but as wine producers have started to get more and more creative, many French winemakers have used the vin de table category to make some interesting and unusual wines. The Les Deux Terroirs is a blend of Merlot from the South-west of France (ie, near Bordeaux) and Syrah from the South-east (ie near the Rhone). The wine doesn’t have a vintage, but the bottle indicates it was bottled in 2006 and would be best enjoyed from 2007-2010.

Soft, round and fairly full-bodied, I was impressed by the Les Deux Terroirs and it was exciting to see yet another French producer thinking outside the box (or bottle). I would have liked to have tried this out with either some grilled steaks or even some hamburgers, but that was the night that we were having shrimp over pasta topped with Bill’s aunt’s home-made pesto (which we paired with a very nice Sauvignon Blanc). So, we settled for enjoying the wine before dinner with some bread topped with an olive tapenade and a selection of hard cheeses. According to what I discovered on the Internet when I looked this wine up, it is only available right now in New York, Florida and Illinois. So if you happen to live in any of those markets, definitely see if you can find the Les Deux Terroirs and let me know what you think!

It is a toss-up question in the wine world these days whether the most hated grape is Merlot or Chardonnay. After the film Sideways, those of us who work in the wine industry watched with a bit of amazement at how quick wine drinkers were to embrace Pinot Noir and reject Merlot. I have to say, there is a lot of mediocre Merlot in the world. Merlot is a pretty easy grape to grow and it can be grown in regions that aren’t all that suited to it. All of that can make for Merlot that is pretty average and nondescript. That being said, in its defense, there is also a lot of very drinkable, enjoyable and lovely Merlot being made that shouldn’t be spurned.

And now, it appears that Chardonnay, Merlot’s counterpart in popularity, is starting to fall out of favor. Chardonnay, like Merlot, is also a grape that can grow in less than perfect conditions and still be made into fairly drinkable wine. But Chardonnay is also grown in some of the greatest vineyards in the world and can make exquisite wines. Unfortunately, the popularity of these grapes is also their downfall.

My hope though, is that maybe wine drinkers are starting to realize that not every Chardonnay and Merlot out there is the same. For the longest time, people have referred to these two wines as if all Chardonnay and all Merlot tasted the same. “I’ll have a Merlot” was a common phrase in a restaurant or a bar. The same with Chardonnay. Now, I’m hearing people say “oh, I hate Chardonnay, it’s too heavy.” Funny thing though, the same people who tell me they don’t like Chardonnay are big fans of Chablis – one of the regions famous for producing mineral, elegant Chardonnays.

I think, for us to be fair to Chardonnay and Merlot, we need to realize that these two grapes have been over-planted, but that that doesn’t mean we should give up on them. There are still places where these grapes are grown where they do produce wines of quality and distinctiveness. For instance, many people don’t realize that Chardonnay is the white grape of Burgundy and that Merlot is one of the major grapes used in the wines of Bordeaux. Both of these places are wonderful regions for these grapes and wine drinkers would do well to keep an open mind about Chardonnay and Merlot produced there.

There are a lot of wonderful grapes out there, and I encourage you to try all of them. But don’t turn away from Chardonnay and Merlot just because a movie tells you to – otherwise you’ll be missing out on some beautiful wines.