What's Going On in the World of French Wines

In my previous post on Bordeaux last month, I covered some of the major appellations for white wines, both dry and sweet. This month’s post will concentrate on some of the red wines that Bordeaux is so very famous for.
Let’s first start out with a little about the red grapes that are grown in Bordeaux. There are three major varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. There are also two lesser-known grapes that are sometimes used in the blend as well: Petit Verdot and Malbec. A third grape, Carmenère, used to be part of the blend, but after Bordeaux was hit by phylloxera in the late 1800s, much of it was not replanted and so today it is very rarely used.
While Cabernet Sauvignon is considered by many to be the King of Bordeaux, it is in fact, the second-most planted red grape in the region. The most-planted red grape of Bordeaux is actually Merlot. Much of this has to do with the soils that are found in Bordeaux. On the well-draining gravelly soils that dot the region, Cabernet Sauvignon is typically the favored grape. But for the cooler, damper soils that are found throughout much of the rest of Bordeaux, Merlot has proved easier to grow. Merlot tends to tolerate dampness better than Cabernet Sauvignon and it also ripens earlier. The differences between these two grapes can be very helpful in a region with a lot of wet weather and the possibility of rain during the harvest months.
In fact, while some interpret blends as a way of camouflaging a grape’s limitations, another way of looking at a blend is that the sum is greater than the parts. Not only do Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon act almost as insurance policies for each other by ripening at different times and having a preference for different soil types, but they also work to complement each other in a blend. Merlot adds a softness and a fullness to Cabernet Sauvignon while Cabernet’s acidity and tannins can be used to prevent Merlot from being too plush and lacking in structure. Each of the other grapes, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec have something to add as well and the combination of all of these grapes ideally works to create a wine that is well-balanced, long-lived and harmonious on the palate.
As we discussed in the first post about Bordeaux, the region’s appellations can be thought of as concentric circles. The largest circle for red wines would be the AOC Bordeaux – think of it as a regional appellation that encompasses almost all of Bordeaux. It accounts for approximately 40% of all red wines produced in Bordeaux. A slightly smaller circle is the AOC Bordeaux Supérieur, which has a minimum alcohol that is a half a percent higher than AOC Bordeaux, a slightly higher aging requirement of a minimum of 12 months and is made from selected spots within the appellation.
Now here is where the circles get a bit confusing as there are lots of smaller appellations that are well worth discussing. This post will focus on the Left Bank, or the west side of the Gironde where we find the very important appellation of the Médoc. The Médoc is perhaps the most famous home for Cabernet Sauvignon in the world. With its well-draining soils with their high gravel content and a climate moderated by close proximity to the ocean, the Médoc is well-suited to growing high quality Cabernet Sauvignon. The Médoc is also very famous because it is the main subject of the historical Classification of 1855 (Graves was included as well, but we are going to discuss that area separately in another post). This classification of the chateaux on the Left Bank was put together by the merchants in Bordeaux and the rankings were based mainly on price. Chateaux were grouped into growths, going from First Growths (or Premier Crus) to Fifth Growths (Cinquième Crus). While many of the chateaux that were classified back in 1855 have ceased to exist, for the most part, the 1855 classification is still used in Bordeaux and there has only been one formal change to the list in 1973, when Château Mouton-Rothschild was changed from a Second Growth to a First Growth. It is important to note though, that the classification of 1855 is not part of the AOC system and in many ways, getting to know the different appellations is much more important than memorizing the entire list of classified growths.
Returning to our idea of concentric circles, within the Médoc is the Haut-Médoc, an appellation made up of vineyards located in several communes that are not entitled to their own commune AOC. Many of these wines can represent excellent buys for Bordeaux lovers. Château Corconnac, one of the wines from my list, is a great example of an affordable and very delicious Haut-Médoc wine.
Finally, within the Médoc we reach the most important Left Bank appellations – the communes of St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, and Margaux, which are home to the majority of those chateaux from the 1855 classification. St. Estèphe is known for producing full-bodied, but rather austere red wines with high levels of acidity that are typically very age-worthy. Two of the most well-known producers are Ch. Montrose and Cos d’Estournel. Pauillac is perhaps one of the most famous communes in the Médoc as it is home to three of the five first growths – Ch. Lafite-Rothschild, Ch. Latour and Ch. Mouton-Rothschild. The wines of Pauillac are very powerful, concentrated and long-lived and especially known for their distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon character and notes of cassis and cedar.
The next commune, that of St-Julien, is perhaps a bit underrated compared to the others. It typically produces wines that are a bit more subtle and approachable. Chateaux such as Léoville-Las-Cases, Léoville-Poyferré and Léoville-Barton, Gruaud-Larose, and Ducru-Beaucaillou are some of the best-known producers from St-Julien. Finally, we reach the commune of Margaux, the home of the well-known Ch. Margaux as well as Ch. Palmer, Ch. Lascombes and Ch. Brane-Cantenac. Wines from Margaux are considered to be some of the most perfumed and silky of the Médoc. While many will argue that Margaux has experienced more ups and downs than other communes, when the 1855 Classification was originally put together, Margaux had more properties included than any other commune. Fortunately for Cabernet Sauvignon (and Merlot) lovers everywhere, it is back on the upswing today.
We’ll continue in another post with some of the other smaller communes in Bordeaux that can offer wine lovers a good buy, but I thought it would be important to cover some of the most historical and well-known appellations in this post about the Left Bank. As always, let me know if you have any questions and comments!

I’m working on a post on Bordeaux for later this week, but I had a really interesting wine last night and so I wanted to share it with everyone on the blog. A few months ago, I was in a wine store in my area when I spotted an interesting looking bottle of wine. The first thing that caught my eye was the label – it was one of those labels that grabs your attention – not because it is showy or there’s a cute animal, but because it was, well, so very pretty. Intrigued, I picked it up and was even more interested to see that it was made with organically grown grapes and that, best of all, it was priced at $9.99. So, naturally, I had to buy it!
So what’s funny about this is that the Les Chemins de Bassac Isa Rouge has been sitting in my wine fridge in my kitchen untouched since that impulse purchase. Every time I’ve gone to pull out a wine for dinner, I’ve looked at it and then thought to myself, am I really in the mood for this wine? I’m not really sure what made me hesitate to open the Isa – I think I was so excited to find it that I was worried that drinking the wine would be a bit of a let-down…amazing how sometimes you can be your own worst enemy!
Well, last night I made spaghetti and meatballs and when I went to grab a wine to serve with dinner, lo and behold, I discovered that I was out of my stash of everyday Italian wines. Yes, I keep a selection of inexpensive Italian red wines on hand to serve with my red sauce – I find that my tomato sauce tends to go best with either a Valpolicella or a Chianti. But I digress…so, unfortunately (or fortunately) for me, there were no Italian reds to be had. So I went searching through the other shelves to see what I could find. And that’s when I spotted the Isa, which had been languishing on the top shelf of the wine fridge for way too long.
What the heck, I thought – why not open it? I’ll admit it, I didn’t have high expectations – not only because of the potential problem of pairing it with my red sauce, but also because I had stupidly convinced myself that something that pretty, that reasonably priced and made with organically grown grapes wasn’t going to be all that tasty – it seemed just too good to be true. Well, silly me. The Isa was lovely, with soft earthy black fruits, notes of spicy plums and hints of ripe cherries. The tannins were fairly soft and the acidity and alcohol were balanced, but somehow the wine went very nicely with the sauce. Perhaps it was the addition of the meatballs to the sauce, but the combination was really enjoyable, and the wine that was left in my glass was equally delicious with my dessert of chocolate chip cookies.

The Les Chemins de Bassac Isa Rouge is a Vin de Pays des Côtes de Thongue, which is located in the Languedoc, in the South of France. The wine is a blend of Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir and the grapes are all farmed organically. If you would like more information about the wine, I recommend checking the estate’s website.
So what did I learn tonight? Well, first off, it was a great reminder that I need to take my own advice when I spot something interesting – I need to not hesitate to open the wine once I get it home! I foolishly made some assumptions about the wine (the label’s too pretty and the wine’s too reasonably priced for it to be really good) that were definitely without merit. And this was a great reminder that there are wines made with organically grown grapes that can be found for under $10. So for all those people who say you have to pay extra for grapes grown without synthetic chemicals, the Isa is a terrific example of the value wines that are available these days. Finally, it was definitely a treat to discover a delicious wine that stood up to my red sauce – and I bet it would be great with a whole bunch of other dishes too!

I have to admit it – overall, I’m not such a big fan of Valentine’s Day. And it isn’t just because of the whole “what if you don’t have someone to spend the most romantic day of the year with” issue. No, personally, I find it tough to get excited about the prospect of overspending on a so-so meal at a crowded restaurant with a dozen outrageously expensive roses and a box of boring chocolates. Call me cynical, but I think that there are a lot of better ways to show someone how much you love them.
What might those be? Well, I’m glad that you asked. Instead of going out for a meal this Valentine’s Day, I would propose that you create your own night of romance with a delicious, but simple meal and a bottle of wine that will set the stage for an evening that you will both enjoy. And the wonderful thing about this idea is that you can even adapt this meal for a group of friends, so that no one has to feel left out of the celebration.

There are so many different ways to plan a menu that will work for Valentine’s Day. There are any number of foods that are considered aphrodisiacs and a variety of ingredients that are supposed to also encourage a feeling of romance. One list of foods that I came across included: Chile Peppers, Peaches, Mint, Ginger, Honey, Chocolate, Mangoes, Saffron, Almonds, Rosemary, Vanilla, Figs.
So, here’s my idea for a menu for Valentine’s Day based on using some of the above ingredients. Feel free to adapt it to fit your needs and your own taste preferences. First course: A spinach salad with figs, goat cheese, toasted almonds and strawberries with a honey poppy seed dressing. Second course: Grilled beef tenderloin that has been coated in salt, pepper and chopped fresh rosemary served with small roasted potatoes that have been tossed in olive oil, salt, pepper and rosemary. Dessert: Vanilla ice cream with hot fudge sauce (with optional whipped cream and cherries).

And my wine suggestions? For the first course, I would suggest a Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé and for the main course, a full-bodied red wine such as a Syrah from the Northern Rhône or a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend from Bordeaux. There’s also the possibility of using a wine with a little bit of a romantic theme to it – you might think about looking for a Beaujolais from the Cru of Saint-Amour. And you can’t forget a dessert wine for a Valentine’s Day meal. I have two suggestions for dessert – either an off-dry Champagne (to which I would add a raspberry in the bottom of each glass – just to provide a hint of red) or a fortified sweet wine, such as a Banyuls, which is a great pairing for chocolate. (Throw in a chocolate brownie and you are guaranteed to hit a home run on dessert.)

Keep the focus on simple ingredients that work well together and won’t require a lot of work in the kitchen and you will be assured a special meal. Sometimes, less is actually more when it comes to making a meal memorable.

And if you have any other suggestions for a wonderful (but easy) Valentine’s Day meal, please post your thoughts below - I’d love to hear about them!

When we talk about the most important grape varieties in the wine world, there is no doubt that when it comes to red grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon is considered the King. Few grapes have proven as age-worthy, as consistently reliable and as downright delicious as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Thanks to work in the late 1990s by grape geneticist Dr. Carole Meredith and the UC Davis Department of Viticulture and Enology, we can trace the origins of Cabernet Sauvignon to a chance meeting in a vineyard in Southwest France between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc that occurred sometime during the 17th century (sounds romantic, right?). Although there had been some speculation that Cabernet Sauvignon had more ancient origins, there was also a theory (which the DNA research confirmed), that the aromas that Cabernet Sauvignon shares in common with Cabernet Franc (lead pencil, tea leaves, black currants) and with Sauvignon Blanc (grassy, herbal) pointed to some sort of relationship between the three grapes. But regardless of what Cabernet Sauvignon has in common with Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc, it is a distinctly unique grape that has, over time, outshown its parents.

There is a bit of a chicken and egg debate in the wine world about Cabernet Sauvignon. Is it so popular because it is fairly easy to grow (thus meaning that there is so much of it out there that we can’t avoid it), or is it because we like it so much that producers around the world have sought out ways to grow as much of it as they can? Most likely, the answer is a little bit of both. In terms of marketing, Cabernet Sauvignon is tough to beat. With a high level of name recognition and a top reputation, most producers and wine drinkers hold it in very high esteem. And many of its viticultural characteristics make it very easy to love. Cabernet Sauvignon is a very thick-skinned, hardy grape with good disease-resistance and the ability to grow well in a variety of soils and climates (although it does have a preference for well-draining soil and moderate climates).

Cabernet Sauvignon is, like Chardonnay, very much a winemaker’s grape. It requires a good deal of skill to handle Cabernet’s tannic nature and while it has a great affinity for oak, the integration of Cabernet Sauvignon and oak also demands a producer’s full attention. Cabernet Sauvignon produces wines that are medium to full-bodied, tannic, high in acid and very capable of extensive aging. Common primary aromas and flavors (going from cool climate to warm climate characteristics) are cinnamon, menthol, eucalyptus, mint, violet, berry, plum, blackcurrant, cassis, black olive, prune, licorice. As Cabernet Sauvignon ages, you will typically find notes of earth, tobacco, cigar-box, milk chocolate, tobacco, coffee, mocha, lead pencil, herbal tea, and leather on the nose and palate.

As mentioned above, Cabernet Sauvignon’s birthplace was most likely somewhere in the Southwest of France, but it did not take long for it to spread, and with it, a reputation for producing high quality wines. The region considered most synonymous with Cabernet Sauvignon is, of course Bordeaux. Although most Bordeaux wines are not made with 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (most are a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc), it is still considered by most (especially those on the Left Bank in Bordeaux) to be the most important of the three. Cabernet Sauvignon is also grown in the Loire and these days, throughout the South of France as well. It is what the grape can do in Bordeaux, though, that has really set the standard for Cabernet Sauvignon around the world. The gravelly soil of the left bank of Bordeaux is, in particular, considered ideal for growing top quality Cabernet and growers around the world, notably in California, Australia and Italy, have looked to achieve similar results.

If you are looking to get a sense of what Cabernet Sauvignon tastes like, I suggest you taste through any of the following wines from my list: Arrogant Frog “Lily Pad Red” Vin de Pays d’Oc, Chateau Corconnac Haut-Médoc, Chateau de Parenchère Cuvée Raphael Bordeaux Supérieur, Chateau La Maroutine Bordeaux Rouge, Chateau Machorre Bordeaux Supérieur, Grand Bateau Rouge, La Croix Bonis St. Estephe, Mas de Guiot Vin de Pays du Gard and Mouton Cadet Bordeaux Rouge. You can also have some fun by picking out some wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon grown around the world and comparing how similar and how different Cabernet from various regions can taste. And, of course, given how ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon can be, you also could buy some wine and save it for a few years to see for yourself what happens to the aroma and taste of Cabernet Sauvignon as it ages. I’d suggest finding some Bordeaux wines from 2005 to use in your experiment. The 2005 was a fantastic vintage in Bordeaux and while tasting beautifully now, these are also wines that will age and drink well over the next 5 to 8 years (and more for the top wines).

So don’t be cruel, grab a glass of Cabernet Sauvignon and give a toast to the king. It’ll make your heart (or at the very least your palate) sing.

Recently, as a favor to a very good friend, I conducted a small wine tasting for a group of graduate students. One of the guys in the group had inherited a number of California wines, mainly red wines from Napa and Sonoma, and he wanted to share them with his friends but also have everyone learn a little bit about wine in the process of tasting.

After I looked over the list of wines that we would be tasting, I decided to include two French wines – the first, a Pinot Noir as that was one of the red grape varieties for which we didn’t have a California wine represented, and the other, a Northern Rhone Syrah to serve as a compare/contrast partner for a Ridge 2002 Syrah.

I’d had a bit of a busy week with some travel, our continued quest to unpack and just general business, so I didn’t get a chance to pick up the French wines for the tasting until that day. So, while I was out running some errands, I decided to make a stop at a new wine shop near my house called HV Bottle Shop. As many of you know, as much as I love book stores and shoe stores, there is little that can compare in my mind to the joy of shopping in a wine store – especially a new one I don’t know. So while I literally only had 20 minutes to scan the shelves and make my purchases, I did have enough time to know that I had found a store with some very interesting and exciting wines. For the tasting I selected the 2003 Domaine Bruno Clair Marsannay “Les Vaudenelles” (around $18) and the 2006 Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage “Les Jalets” (around $22). I also picked up a few other goodies that I can’t wait to blog about, but I am going to save those for another post.

The wines all showed well, but I was particularly impressed with the Bruno Clair Marsannay, a delicious Pinot that demonstrated that there are definitely bargains still to be found in Burgundy, and one of the wines provided by the host for the evening, the 2001 A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley, which was showing beautifully with evolved notes of leather, blackcurrants and cassis fruit. Our Syrah comparison (Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage “Les Jalets” and the 2002 Ridge Syrah Dry Creek Valley) was also very interesting with both wines showing what different climates and oak techniques can do to a grape. The Jaboulet was a bit tighter and leaner, with bright acidity and notes of black pepper, cinnamon and cherry fruit while the Ridge was fuller and softer, still with some notes of black pepper and cherries, but also with hints of coconut and dill from the use of American oak. Both were delicious and well-made, but very different and everyone was intrigued by the comparison.

I have to admit, talking to a group of wine drinkers is always a pleasure, and when the wines are so well-made and fascinating, it is all the more fun (and easy to do!). And of course, it is always interesting to taste wines from multiple regions and see not only how palates and tastes in wine can vary, but also how grape varieties can change depending on where they are grown.

If you are interested in having your own wine tasting, one of the themes that is always interesting and easy to do is an Old World versus New World comparison. You can choose a Pinot Noir (like the Maison Joseph Drouhin Laforet Pinot Noir), a Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine (like the La Croix Bonis St. Estephe) and a Syrah-based wine (like the Laurent Miquel Syrah Vin de Pays d’Oc) from France, for example, and then choose 3 New World wines (there are plenty of options – look for wines from Australia, Chile, Argentina or the US). Let me know how your tasting turns out!

I recently had the opportunity to speak with Nancy Rugus, who is the Director of the Americas for Compagnie Medocaine Des Grands Crus, a Bordeaux negociant. She was kind enough to answer a few questions for me about a subject near and dear to her heart – French Wine!

1. How did you get started in the wine business?

I fell in love with food and wine. I was teaching in the NYC public schools and took a leave of absence to start selling wine in NYC for a wine division at one of the larger distributors. I had no experience in the wine trade but have always enjoyed my work and never went back to teaching.

2. Tell us a little bit about the Compagnie Medocaine Des Grands Crus.

Compagnie Médocaine des Grands Crus is a Bordeaux negociant that has experienced steady growth over the past 5 to 10 years. We think of ourselves as a distribution company and not just as a trader of wines. We take a long-term perspective, building strong partnerships throughout the USA.

3. What is your favorite French region and why?

Well of course, it’s Bordeaux. Bordeaux consistently produces quality wines that often can have long aging ability. It is also a region of great diversity with something for everyone - not only in terms of price but also in terms of style. I have had some of the most wonderful experiences there. The French have always shown me nothing but the warmest reception and hospitality – not necessarily what many Americans realize about them.

4. What is the most memorable French wine that you have ever tasted?

I’ve had many great wines so it is very difficult to answer this question. The most memorable would be a few from the St Julien appellation that I had at a Marvin Overton tasting some years ago, coming from the late 1800’s. The wines were still fresh although short lived and this experience gives me certain bragging rights. But I would have to say that almost any really good wine that is perfectly ready to drink can only give great pleasure.

5. What is your favorite food and French wine pairing that might surprise people?

Simple Roast Chicken with a well-balanced Bordeaux wine. I often get pleasure from the simplest combinations and some of the best memories I have of wine and food are not just about the wine & food, but the total experience – sharing it with other friends and family.

6. What three wines would you have to have with you if you were stranded on a desert island?

A great Sauternes - very complex, yet fruity and elegant wine; a great Bordeaux - young or with a little age, different sensations but all giving instant pleasure (not bad on a desert island); and certainly Champagne - the bubbles always make me feel wonderful!

7. What French wine do you drink most frequently?

I love Bordeaux and drink it very often - but also drink Burgundy, especially the whites which can be exceptional. I also enjoy a glass of Champagne as an aperitif as often as I can.

8. What do you see as the biggest change in Bordeaux in the last 10 years?

The fact that there are almost no bad vintages any more. Some vintages may not produce wines you would want to put down and age for a long time, but overall, there really haven’t been any bad vintages in recent years.

9. What is the biggest misconception Americans have about French wine?

I think many people are intimidated, thinking that it is complicated to understand the wines. That is mostly because the varietal name is rarely used in France and American consumers are used to seeing Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, etc.

I am thrilled to announce that Rosie Cox of Lexington, NC has won the Wines of France Sweepstakes. Rosie was randomly selected from more than 12,500 entrants and will be taking her husband, Donald (who also entered the sweepstakes!) with her to France this September. I am so excited for both of them! It is also a special coincidence to see someone from Lexington win this fabulous trip! Lexington, NC is where my husband and I were married. (And we had our wedding reception at a winery in Lexington.)

Rosie and Donald will be traveling to both Bordeaux and Burgundy which will give them a chance to experience two of the most important and historic wine regions in the world. What are some of the things that they will discover? In Bordeaux they will get to see the harvesting of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc grapes for the red wines, and Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon grapes for the white wines. While in Burgundy, they will have the opportunity to watch as winemakers make wines from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes. The opportunity to learn about all of these different grapes is a wonderful experience for a wine lover – it will change the way they think about wine forever!

Bordeaux and Burgundy offer such a wonderful compare-and-contrast for someone learning about wine. In Bordeaux, you get to see the famous large chateaux and learn about how winemakers skillfully blend several different grapes together to create the full-bodied, rich and age-worthy red wines of the region. In Burgundy, on the other hand, you will find small producers who create silky and elegant reds from only the Pinot Noir grape, and powerful and crisp whites from Chardonnay alone. Each region has set a style for wines that is emulated around the world. And while there are definitely winemaking techniques that are used in both regions, there are also several practices in the cellar that are unique to each, and Rosie and Donald will have a chance to experience them all.

Rosie and Donald have promised to share their experiences here on my blog so that we can all learn from their harvest adventure and see for ourselves what makes French wine so special. I can’t wait for their trip – although I am sure that Rosie is even more excited about it than I am!

Oh, and one last piece of advice for Rosie and Donald – make sure that you take very comfortable and study (and hopefully waterproof) shoes with you. Also, don’t forget to pack some old shirts, too. Winery work is fun, but it can get pretty messy!

Recently at a dinner with another couple, I watched as two different bottles of wine were opened — because he won’t drink white (ever) and she won’t drink red (ever). Now, I try very hard to get across the point to wine lovers everywhere that it really is OK to like what you like. I do understand that not everyone will love all the different types of wines that are out there. But one of the things that struck me was how much this couple was missing out on because they don’t ever share their wine experiences. It also made me think about how there is a big difference between having a preference for one type of wine and completely limiting yourself.

Years ago, I went out on a date with a guy, we’ll call him Roger, who took me to a very upscale steakhouse. As we sat down and the waitress handed us the menus, I eagerly began perusing the wine list. As I have said before, one of my favorite combinations is a steak and a great Cabernet Sauvignon-based wine, but I’m flexible – there are also a lot of other tasty pairings out there. As this restaurant was known for its terrific red selection, I figured that whether or not it ended up being a Cab, we’d find a good red to enjoy. Not wanting to make the choice without his input, I asked Roger what kind of wine he was interested in having.

And then he said it. He actually said, “Oh, I don’t drink red wine.” I believe I replied something to the effect of, “well, what about a red that isn’t very tannic or a really light red wine?” but I can’t be sure – I think I was so surprised by his opposition to the idea of red wine. Roger’s reply: “No, sorry, I don’t drink red wine, ever. I don’t like it.” No amount of discussion could persuade Roger to give any red wine on the list a try – I couldn’t believe it! There was no pleasurable discussion to be had about the bottle of wine we wouldn’t be sharing, no shared enjoyment of the meal. I believe we settled for wines by the glass, but at that point it was clear to me that there would definitely NOT be a second date…

I frequently tell the Roger story to illustrate the fact that when it comes to wine, it is very important to be open to trying new things (and to sharing). There are folks out there who stay away from red wines because they are headache prone – that I can understand. And I also respect people who tell me that they find some red wines too dry and bitter. But what I think is great is when these same people decide that they are willing to keep an open mind and try another red, that maybe that one won’t be too dry or too tannic for their taste. These folks have realized that you can’t lump all red wines into the same group: just because you might not like Cabernet Sauvignon doesn’t mean that you will also hate Pinot Noir.

We all have our preferences when it comes to wine – even if we don’t know it. There are definitely certain types of wines I prefer over others – as well as certain styles of winemaking that I favor. But that doesn’t mean that, if presented with a wine that probably isn’t “my type”, I will refuse it. Instead, I think that it is really important to try the wine – in my book it is a learning experience to taste everything – the good, the bad and even the ugly!

There are also so many different variables that come into play when tasting a wine. The temperature of the wine, the temperature of the room, the food being served, the company – heck some people will even tell you that the music being played will have an impact. I have one friend who talks about how he fell in love with a wine on vacation only to come home and try the same wine and find that he didn’t really like it all that much. Sometimes our frame of mind (hello, he was on vacation – everything tastes better on vacation!) will even play a role.

So deciding that you will only drink a certain white wine for the rest of your life is not only boring, but limiting too – just think about all the different wines out there you will be missing out on – there are literally thousands! So if you don’t like the heavier, more tannic reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah, then consider trying a lighter, less tannic red like a Beaujolais made from the Gamay grape. Or try a Pinot Noir – many times people will find that Pinots have a more delicate structure with less drying tannins. And if some reds are too dry for your taste, then consider experimenting with a blend of Syrah and Grenache which you will find in a Cotes du Rhone. When it comes to whites, if you don’t love the oaky and vanilla notes found on many Chardonnays, then look for a Pinot Blanc from Alsace. That’s a white that is very food-friendly, but not too dry or acidic. If you are looking for something a bit more full-bodied, then try a perfumy Viognier from the South of France. And if you love high acid whites with floral notes but want a change from Riesling or Gewurztraminer, then try a mouth-watering Chenin Blanc from the Loire. There are so many different wines out there to choose from!

I don’t know whatever happened to Roger, by the way. Hopefully at some point he decided to take a chance and try red wine again. I’d be willing to bet that some red wine out there somewhere might make him realize that the color of a wine isn’t a reason to refuse to taste it. Luckily for me, though, I ended up finding a guy who is always game for tasting any wine I want to open up, no matter what color or how unusual it might be.

OK, this might seem a little bit off-topic, but bear with me. Did anyone happen to see the article in the NY Times Dining and Wine section July 9th on the quest for the perfect chocolate chip cookie recipe? I don’t know if I have ever read another article in a newspaper that was quite so motivating or drool-worthy! I don’t know about you, but I will DEFINITELY be baking chocolate chip cookies within the next few days…

But I digress…One of the points of the article that did actually get me to thinking about wine had to do with the idea of letting the batter “age.” Apparently letting the chocolate chip cookie batter sit for a period of time (somewhere between 24 and 36 hours) before cooking can give you a better and more flavorful cookie. And that is, of course, when the little wine geek inside of me said, “Ah ha! See, chocolate chip cookies and wine DO have a lot in common!”

Aging cookie dough is a lot like aging wine it turns out. If you are like me, you’ve probably never aged your cookie dough prior to baking it (in my house I am lucky if we have any dough left to bake – eating the dough is our favorite part) and, like me, you didn’t think you were missing anything. But after reading this article, you can bet that I will be experimenting with aging the dough before cooking it – especially if it makes a richer and more flavorful cookie.

Which brings us, naturally, to wine. How many of you out there drink older wines? Research indicates that most of us drink our wines within LESS than 24 hours of buying them. Now, there really isn’t anything wrong with that – in fact, most wine experts will tell you that much of what is available on the market these days is designed to be enjoyed while youthful. Winemakers realize that most folks aren’t aging their wines – heck most folks don’t have wine cellars – and so wines today are a bit different from those made fifty years ago. But, that being said, there is something to the idea of aging a wine to give it time to become (like the chocolate chip cookie) richer and more flavorful.

There are many things that happen to wines as they age – red wines get a bit paler in color and move from being in the ruby red family to a garnet/brick color; white wines typically get a bit darker, going from lemon yellow to more of a golden color. Aromas also change. In “wine speak,” we say that the primary fruity aromas of a wine give way to complex and developed secondary aromas. So, for instance, a Cabernet Sauvignon might have notes of blackcurrants and vanilla while young, and then show a nose of cedar, leather and tobacco when older.

While most people think that red wines are the only wines that you should age, there are also white wines that are age-worthy. Wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Pinot Noir are several examples of red grapes worth aging, while wines made from Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Riesling are great examples of age-worthy whites. Grape tannins and oak tannins, which can be found in both red and white wines, generally benefit from some time in bottle. Letting a highly tannic wine age will allow the tannins to soften over time and make them less astringent and drying in the mouth. This will make the wine taste much more mellow and soft – you might notice wine tasters talk about aging allowing for the tannins to become integrated into the wine – this is part of what they are talking about.

To see for yourself what aging can do for a wine, I usually recommend that you purchase a half case to a case of a good quality red wine. One to try from my list would be the La Croix Bonis. If you don’t have a wine cellar or a wine cooler, I would find a dark, cool spot in the back of a closet or in a basement where you can keep your wine. Mark the date you bought the wine on each bottle and then using either six or twelve month increments, mark each bottle with a “to be opened” date. You can even send yourself an email calendar reminder. You can taste the first bottle as soon as you buy the wine, then try another in six months and another six months after that. Make sure you take a few notes as you taste so that you can look back and compare each wine. I will guarantee that you will notice the wine changing over time and that this little experiment will give you a different appreciation for the aging process. And now, if you will excuse me, I think I am going to go do some experimenting with that chocolate chip cookie recipe.

The July 4th Holiday is just around the corner – as is Bastille Day, July 14th, the national holiday in France that commemorates the storming of the Bastille and the end of the French monarchy. As a history major in college, I have always felt that historical holidays are a time for celebrations. Independence Day, in my opinion, is usually one of the more enjoyable days of the year (I also adore Halloween, but we’ll get to that in October). What is better than picnics, fireworks, and summertime fun? Almost all of my favorite foods (tomatoes, corn, blueberries and watermelon) are at their peak, and who doesn’t love a holiday that usually involves brownies? (OK, maybe this is just in my family, but somehow brownies decorated with red, white and blue icing were always served as a part of dessert…) But of course, with any holiday or celebration, there is always the important question: what wine should I serve with the meal?

For those of you who might answer that beer would be the appropriate and patriotic beverage of choice on July 4th, you might be interested to know that Thomas Jefferson supposedly drank Madeira to toast the signing of the Declaration of Independence. Madeira, a wonderful fortified wine produced on the Island of Madeira, is definitely one of my favorite types of fortified wines. Produced in styles both dry and sweet, Madeira was particularly in vogue back in the late 1700s and was consumed by many of the founding fathers. The addition of the extra alcohol (the fortification part) helped to make wines like Port, Sherry and Madeira a bit more stable for the long journey across the Atlantic.

But while Jefferson and his friends were fans, I would argue that it is probably not the ideal wine for serving at your July 4th picnic. Perhaps you could consider offering your guests a sip with their brownies at the end of the meal, but pairing Madeira with fried chicken or hamburgers is not the way to go on a hot summer’s day. Instead, I suggest that you choose another of our founding fathers’ favorites – the wines of Bordeaux or Burgundy. Along with fortified wines like Sherry and Madeira, Thomas Jefferson and Ben Franklin both drank a good deal of French wine. Indeed, Jefferson was famous for his purchases of large volumes of French wine and also for his desire to establish a winery at his home in Monticello.

Luckily for us, the 2005 vintage of Bordeaux was particularly good and there are a tremendous number of affordable and delicious wines available right now. Typically a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, the wines of Bordeaux are usually elegant and full-bodied without being too soft and alcoholic. While some are a bit on the tannic side and will benefit from years of aging, there are many that are terrific for drinking right now. And if you open one and find it a bit tight, I suggest pouring it into a glass decanter to help it open up a bit more quickly. So if you are serving a selection of grilled meats or hamburgers, a beef tenderloin or beef kabobs, I would definitely recommend that you look for a wine from the Bordeaux region of France.

If a mixture of shrimp, salmon or chicken will be on your menu for the Fourth, then I would turn towards the wines of one of Jefferson’s other favorite regions, Burgundy. With reds made from Pinot Noir and whites from Chardonnay, Burgundy is a region that produces wines that typically have a good level of acidity to them, which makes them extremely food-friendly and refreshing. Additionally, many of the Chardonnays from Burgundy are aged in older oak barrels or only a portion of new French oak barrels, which makes them a lot less heavy and oaky than many of the New World Chardonnays available these days.

If you consult the wine list on the site, you will find a number of recommendations for affordable red and white wines from both wine regions that will really get your holiday party hopping. So whether you are celebrating Bastille Day or Independence Day or even both, enjoy your celebration and just make sure that you keep the fireworks away from the wine….