What's Going On in the World of French Wines

A few weeks ago I had a really interesting conversation with a fellow wine educator about coffee. Last spring, as part of our CSA/farm-share program, Bill and I started getting a one pound bag of whole bean single-origin coffee every other week, thanks to a local roasting company. This, naturally, led us to start thinking a bit more about what kinds of coffee we prefer. We were able to see (taste) that there was one type of roast we favored over the others, but because we got the coffee every other week, it was hard to compare countries or regions and so we just weren’t able to keep track of our favorites. But after my conversation with my friend, who has done some rather extensive tastings of coffee and really zeroed in on what she liked and didn’t like, I was inspired to try again.

So, luckily for me, last week one of our local gourmet stores was having a pretty big sale on coffee and tea (we’ll have to save the tea discussion for another post). So since we were actually pretty low on coffee beans anyway, I decided to use the opportunity to stock up on a few different coffees from around the world to see if I could make any conclusions about our tastes in coffee.

Just to give a little background, Bill and I have coffee every morning (most mornings it is the only thing that gets me to open my eyes willingly). We are pretty much at the opposite ends of the coffee spectrum – he drinks his black and I take mine with a good deal of milk (according to Bill, who usually makes my coffee, the mix is 55% milk (which has to be heated so it doesn’t make the coffee cold), 45% coffee and just a little bit of sugar (not that I’m high maintenance or anything…). But oddly enough, even though we take our coffee very differently, we both seem to like the same kinds. Which, it turns out, tend to be beans sourced mainly from Central and South America. For some reason, and believe you me, I’m still trying to work out my tasting notes for coffee, we both find the lighter flavors of these regions coupled with the higher acidity, slight floral and chocolaty notes to be pretty appealing. And, in addition to the Nicaraguan and Peruvian coffees we’ve taken a shine to, we both love one flavored coffee we’ve found – a Cinnamon-Hazelnut blend. I know some people would say that drinking flavored coffee is, well, maybe indicative of unsophisticated coffee palates, but I say it is a bit like people looking down on sweet wines…if YOU like it and enjoy it (and trust me, I do really enjoy those mornings Bill makes the cinnamon-hazelnut coffee) then who cares what other people think!

And of course all of our discussions about coffee beans got me thinking about the concept of terroir, or the taste of a place. In the past this term has been used primarily in reference to wine, but increasingly it is a word that is being applied to coffee, chocolate, cheese and any number of different vegetables and fruits sold at local markets. The French are particularly fascinated with terroir and it is this idea, that each place has a different taste, that was used as the basis for developing the Appellation Controlee system years ago.

I was really interested in looking at the single-origin coffee beans because I felt that it would be an interesting palate exercise to see if I could find big differences in coffees from different growing spots around the world. We also threw in one twist to our experiment by buying some beans from a certain location in both a “regular” style and then a “pasa” style. The “pasa” beans had been left on the plant to shrivel like raisins, which naturally reminded me of the grapes affected by noble rot that are used to make Sauternes in Bordeaux. Although the two styles were very distinctive (and delicious), there was definitely a taste that was common to both.

Overall, I would say that like wine, we felt that the coffee beans we tried did show some regional differences. I don’t know about you, but I find this idea of tasting a place so interesting and exciting. I thought it was pretty neat that like wine, we were able to taste so many different nuances in the different coffees we tried and also that each location seemed to have a unique taste. It reminded me of how much fun it is to drink broadly – that drinking wines from all over really allows you to realize the special characteristics that make each grape variety and each region interesting.

Why should you care about terroir? Well, just like each of us is a unique individual (with a unique palate), terroir is something that can make wines distinctive. Unfortunately, terroir is one of those really hard taste concepts to put into words – it sort of comes down to a particular taste or feeling you get from something. I’ve always found that the smaller the location from which you are sourcing a product, the more intense the sense of place, but I do find that even wines made with grapes that are grown in multiple regions and then blended can still have some kind of identity (although this does also depend on the skill of the winemaker). But perhaps if we can start identifying differences in food products, maybe it will help us to understand wines better, and in turn, this will encourage us to do what we can to preserve these differences and embrace them. After all, one of the other things our coffee terroir experiment taught us was that there were a number of different coffee terroirs that we really liked and that the best week of coffee involved rotating through several different types.
Be sure to let me know if you’ve ever done a “terroir” experiment with your food or beverages and what the outcome was. I’d love to hear about it!