What's Going On in the World of French Wines

Recently, I had the opportunity to ask 10 questions of winemaker Laurent Miquel, who is based in the Saint Chinian appellation in the South of France where his family has been making wine since 1789. While Laurent comes from a long tradition of winemakers, I think he is an outstanding example of how a new generation of winemakers is affecting the wine industry in France. His Viognier and Syrah are part of my Top Picks list and as you can see from his website (www.laurent-miquel.com), he makes a number of other wines that you would do well to search out.

1. What is your favorite thing about being a winemaker?

The conviviality and the international nature of the wine world. Through my work I have met such a variety of great personalities and philosophers from all over the world. From young New Zealander and Australian winemakers who worked the harvest with us here, to Japanese wine geeks met in Tokyo, to the old hacks at the local wine festivals, almost everyone I have ever met through my work became involved for the love of wine.

Also the sense of heritage that following on from eight generations of family in the same line of business brings. My father is still very active in the vineyards and, although we do not always see eye to eye on everything, working with him on a daily basis is a privilege.

2. If you could make wine in another region in the world, where would it be and why?

There are so many amazing terroirs I would love to make wine in. I admire the very elegant, mineral styles of the whites from Sancerre and Chablis and recently I visited the exciting Rias Baixas DO in Galicia. The climate there is very different from that of the Languedoc with a lot more rain and the Atlantic influence, but I love the energy in the area and the passion they have for their indigenous grape. Their DO is similar in age to our AOC so it would be exciting to work in a similar emerging area for quality wines. 

3. Do you have one grape variety that you enjoy working with more than the others?

I really enjoy working with Viognier. We have worked really hard to develop a unique style and gained great recognition for it. Viognier is not an easy grape to grow or to work with in the cellar. It is fickle and so easy to overdo. So when we achieve a good wine it is all the more satisfying.

4. What is a food and wine pairing that you greatly enjoy?

I cannot resist a great cheese selection and particularly the farmhouse cheeses from the mountains such as comté and reblochon. The perceived pairing with these is a hearty red wine like a Saint Chinian but I love to surprise our guests by serving our Vérité, a selection of oak fermented Viognier.

5. What are your observations of the 2008 harvest?

2008 was the latest in a series of atypical harvests. This time around early summer was very cool meaning that we really had to push back the harvest date, particularly on our Syrahs. For me, this was a fantastic year for producing more elegant wines with better balance. This obviously benefitted the whites, but also the reds. They will be more understated than the fruity 2007s but I am quietly confident.

6. What is one of your greatest challenges as a winemaker?

Getting it right in the vineyard is the biggest challenge. A lot of our vineyard techniques were copied from Bordeaux and Burgundy, but our terroir and climate are totally different here and different techniques must be invented. My father has been growing vines for over 35 years and he is still learning about the best way to cultivate here in the Languedoc hills.

7. What is the most difficult part of the winemaking process for you?

The moment the grapes arrive at the winery, they are so fragile and one false move at that stage can be fatal for the quality of the wines.

8. How important do you think packaging (the label, the bottle) is for the American consumer and how do you see packaging changing over the next few years for your wines?

Very important! The choice of labeling and bottle type is our first opportunity to tell a prospective buyer about our wines. It must be attractive and informative at the same time; I believe back labels are very important in giving the background of the wine and telling the story of its origins.

We have recently changed our labeling in an effort to make the wines look more reassuring and even more ‘French’ in style. American consumers are definitely interested in French wines, particularly from more approachable regions like ours which can also feature the grape variety on the labels.

It is also important to feature ‘sustainable viticulture’ and other elements that reflect our environmental philosophy. We try to keep our bottle choices reasonable as very heavy bottles mean wasted energy for production and transport.

9. What do you think makes your wines different from other producers in your region?

I concentrate on achieving balance in my wines through growing perfectly ripe fruit that maintains higher acidity levels. Languedoc has a Mediterranean climate and some of the wines from here can be a little rough around the edges and overripe or over extracted. I am determined to show that we can also produce elegant wines from our terroir and that if we put in the hard work in the vines and adapt our planting our wines can show good acidity and balance.

A famous chateau owner in Bordeaux once told me scathingly that wines from Languedoc would never have the ‘finesse’ of his wines. That was like a red flag waved before a bull and for the last decade I have been striving to prove him wrong!

10. How is Syrah (Laurent’s dog) progressing in her training as a truffle-hunting dog?

Syrah is getting on well. This year was the best year for truffles in the Languedoc since the late 90’s due, we think, to winter rainfall. Syrah is very greedy and loves the finer things in life like fillet steak and doggy chocolate drops. This is the perfect temperament for a truffle hunter as when she finds a truffle she gets some cheese as a reward – the bigger the truffle, the more pieces of cheese she demands.

My husband posed an interesting question to me the other night. We were discussing budgets for food and other various items and we started talking about wine prices. Bill asked me, “If you had a budget of $50 for the week for wine, how would you spend it?”

Now some people might think of this as a pretty big weekly budget for wine, while others of you might think a weekly wine budget should be three times this amount. Regardless of what you think the amount should be, it poses a pretty interesting problem: how would you go about splitting up $50 of wine? Probably only a few of you out there are going through a bottle of wine a night, but if you are, then you would have approximately $7.14 to spend on 7 bottles of wine to get you through the week. While this could be doable, it would definitely pose a bit of a challenge for many wine drinkers.

A bit of a more realistic scenario would be for someone to look to buy 3-5 bottles of wine for the week. This would assume that you are having wine with your meal almost every other night and maybe you have a bottle that lasts you for 2 nights. Now, the interesting thing here is to think about this part of the dilemma – would you rather buy 3 bottles of wine for an average price of $16.67, or would you buy more wine – 5 bottles – for $10 each in order to have more variety? Is it better to have more “less expensive” wine, or less “more expensive” wine?
In our house, I would say we drink wine almost every night and while frequently one bottle can go with 2 meals, I tend to like to have more variety than less. So I guess I would say that I average purchasing 4-5 bottles of wine a week. Assuming I stick with the $50 budget (which is, sad to say, a little tough for me to do – I have a hard time resisting the call of a new, unfamiliar wine), I would be spending somewhere between $10 and $12 a bottle. Now, while $7 a bottle might be a little bit of a limitation, an average price of $10-12 a bottle is quite generous these days. And if you look to add in the occasional $7 to $8 bottle, then you could actually give yourself room to buy one slightly more expensive wine.
And then, you always have the option of making a purchase like the one I bought today – a 3L bag-in-box Côtes du Rhône. Something like that, which was $19.99, could give you all kinds of flexibility with your wine budget, as not only are bag-in-box usually an efficient way of spending your wine dollars, but they offer something else quite nice – the ability to have one glass every once in a while from a container that will last for a few months. That’s something that you definitely can’t get from most bottles. I haven’t had a chance to try the wine I just bought, but I will definitely let you know what it tastes like!

And in the meantime, I’d love to hear from you all about how you do your wine budgets. How do you spend your wine dollars and what kind of balance do you look to strike between price and selection? Have any of you out there found a good way to stretch your wine dollars? I’m all ears, so submit your comments below – I can’t wait to read them!

When you say the word, “Bordeaux,” in all likelihood, the image that springs to your mind is one of large chateaux and bottles of red wine. However, this wonderful region in France is also known for producing top-quality white wines – both of the dry and the sweet persuasion.

The white wine production region for Bordeaux is concentrated in two areas. The first area of major importance is the appellation of Entre-Deux-Mers, which is located between the Dordogne and the Garonne rivers. The second, is found on the south side of the Garonne. There you can find the appellations for both dry and sweet wines, including Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac.
One of the things I love most about French wine is how each region grows grapes or uses grapes in a blend that is fairly unique to that appellation. For Bordeaux, the wines are made from a blend of two (and sometimes three) grapes: Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc (with the third grape being Muscadelle). While Sauvignon Blanc is grown elsewhere in France, the “unique factor” here is that in Bordeaux it is blended with Semillon. And furthermore, while the production of dry wines can be found all over the world, the sweet wines of Bordeaux are in truly in a special class all by themselves – as you will shortly see.

Of the two major white wine grapes of the region, Sauvignon Blanc is undoubtedly the better known. Sauvignon Blanc is recognized for having a fairly high level of acidity and notes of grapefruit peel, zesty citrus fruits, passionfruits and gooseberries on both the nose and the palate. Semillon, on the other hand, has a more mellow profile. The level of acidity is a bit lower and the level of potential alcohol is much higher. The flavor profile is characterized by notes of honey, oranges, orange marmalade and figs. Up through the 1970s, Sémillon was extremely important for white wine production for both dry and sweet wines. But today, Sauvignon Blanc is increasingly dominating the blend for dry wines, while Semillon is the favored grape for the sweet wines.

One of the major reasons that Semillon is so important for the production of sweet wines in Bordeaux is its propensity for developing Botrytis cinerea, a special type of fungus that works to dehydrate the grapes, thus concentrating the sugar level (think of it as tasting the difference between raisins and grapes – the dehydrated grapes, i.e. the raisins, have much higher levels of sugar). When you go to ferment grapes that have been affected by botrytis, the yeasts can’t convert all of the sugar to alcohol, and thus there is residual sugar left in the wine making it a sweet wine. The Maritime climate of Bordeaux, with morning mists and high levels of humidity, is also perfect for developing botrytis. You will notice that the best areas for producing the sweet styles of wines, Sauternes, Barsac, and Ste-Croix-du-Mont to name three of the most famous, are clustered around the Garonne river.
The most famous appellation for the production of sweet wines in Bordeaux is Sauternes and the best-known producer in the region is Chateau d’Yquem. I love to relate the story that one glass of d’Yquem is equal to the production of one grapevine in the vineyard – production levels for the sweet wines of Sauternes is obviously very low! There are five communes that are entitled to use the name Sauternes on the label. They are: Barsac, Sauternes, Bommes, Fargues and Preignac. Barsac is entitled to its own appellation and so you will find some wines produced in the commune sold under the AOC Barsac and then other producers who choose to use the Sauternes appellation. Typically Barsac is thought to have a slightly lighter style compared to Sauternes.
Turning to the dry white wines of the region, there is a bit of variability in style and taste profile. Many of the whites made today are very fresh and fruity with a high percentage of Sauvignon Blanc. These typically are labeled as Bordeaux AOC and Entre-Deux-Mers. In contrast, the appellations of Pessac-Leognan and Graves are known for producing white wines that have been aged in oak and are made in a more full-bodied and age-worthy style. These two regions in particular are known for producing wines that can have a very distinctive mineral note that many believe is partly due to the special gravelly, well-draining soil of the area.
I often find that many people, especially those just starting to learn about wine, make the mistake of thinking that Bordeaux is a region that is only good for red wines. As you can see, there is quite a range of white wines that can be found as well. Whether you are looking for a dry wine or a sweet wine, Bordeaux is a region that should appeal to all wine drinkers, especially those looking for food-friendly wines. If you would like to taste more of the white wines of Bordeaux, there are a few on my top picks list that offer great value. For an example of Sauternes, I suggest trying the Castelnau de Suduiraut. And if you would like to taste a dry white from Bordeaux, look for either the Lafite Réserve Spéciale Bordeaux Blanc or the Michel Lynch Sauvignon Blanc. Happy Learning!

I have to admit it – overall, I’m not such a big fan of Valentine’s Day. And it isn’t just because of the whole “what if you don’t have someone to spend the most romantic day of the year with” issue. No, personally, I find it tough to get excited about the prospect of overspending on a so-so meal at a crowded restaurant with a dozen outrageously expensive roses and a box of boring chocolates. Call me cynical, but I think that there are a lot of better ways to show someone how much you love them.
What might those be? Well, I’m glad that you asked. Instead of going out for a meal this Valentine’s Day, I would propose that you create your own night of romance with a delicious, but simple meal and a bottle of wine that will set the stage for an evening that you will both enjoy. And the wonderful thing about this idea is that you can even adapt this meal for a group of friends, so that no one has to feel left out of the celebration.

There are so many different ways to plan a menu that will work for Valentine’s Day. There are any number of foods that are considered aphrodisiacs and a variety of ingredients that are supposed to also encourage a feeling of romance. One list of foods that I came across included: Chile Peppers, Peaches, Mint, Ginger, Honey, Chocolate, Mangoes, Saffron, Almonds, Rosemary, Vanilla, Figs.
So, here’s my idea for a menu for Valentine’s Day based on using some of the above ingredients. Feel free to adapt it to fit your needs and your own taste preferences. First course: A spinach salad with figs, goat cheese, toasted almonds and strawberries with a honey poppy seed dressing. Second course: Grilled beef tenderloin that has been coated in salt, pepper and chopped fresh rosemary served with small roasted potatoes that have been tossed in olive oil, salt, pepper and rosemary. Dessert: Vanilla ice cream with hot fudge sauce (with optional whipped cream and cherries).

And my wine suggestions? For the first course, I would suggest a Sauvignon Blanc from Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé and for the main course, a full-bodied red wine such as a Syrah from the Northern Rhône or a Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend from Bordeaux. There’s also the possibility of using a wine with a little bit of a romantic theme to it – you might think about looking for a Beaujolais from the Cru of Saint-Amour. And you can’t forget a dessert wine for a Valentine’s Day meal. I have two suggestions for dessert – either an off-dry Champagne (to which I would add a raspberry in the bottom of each glass – just to provide a hint of red) or a fortified sweet wine, such as a Banyuls, which is a great pairing for chocolate. (Throw in a chocolate brownie and you are guaranteed to hit a home run on dessert.)

Keep the focus on simple ingredients that work well together and won’t require a lot of work in the kitchen and you will be assured a special meal. Sometimes, less is actually more when it comes to making a meal memorable.

And if you have any other suggestions for a wonderful (but easy) Valentine’s Day meal, please post your thoughts below - I’d love to hear about them!

I don’t know about you, but I think I might just be ready for winter to be over - although that doesn’t appear to be in the forecast. When the cold starts to really get me down, I find myself gravitating to the kitchen – not only because it feels like the warmest room in the house, but also because I find that food and wine are surefire ways to keep the dreary days at bay.
Lately I’ve been having fun making different stews and trying out new chili recipes. I have a chicken and dumpling recipe from Cooks Illustrated that I love to play around with – it is easy to make and I can make a few changes and make it into more of a thick chicken and vegetable soup that my whole family enjoys. Up until a few years ago, I had never made chili before, and it is now one of my favorite meals. I have a couple of different kinds I like to make, but my favorite by far is a turkey chili recipe I found in Cooks Illustrated’s Complete Book of Poultry. (Yes, I am clearly a big fan of Cook’s Illustrated.)

But eating hearty stews or a warming bowl of chili is not the only way to cope with winter. I also find that when the temperature drops I tend to open more bottles of red wine than I do of white. In our house this means that lately we have been enjoying a lot of wines from the Rhône Valley and the South of France (mainly from Languedoc-Roussillon). I haven’t decided if it is the idea of a Mediterranean climate, the slightly higher alcohol levels of the wines from this part of France or the specific combination of fruit and spice found in wines from this section of France, but whatever it is, for me, these are the wines that seem to go best with the cold weather.
In fact, I started to think about my yearly drinking habits and the more I considered them, the more I realized that I actually have a bit of a pattern. I tend, in general, to favor Burgundy, Beaujolais and Bordeaux in the Fall, Rhône and Languedoc-Roussillon in the Winter, the Loire and Provence in the Spring and the wines of Alsace in the Summer. I sort of feel a bit weird that I can actually come up with a pattern to my drinking habits. I’d have to say, though, that there is one exception to my seasonal drinking – Champagne. There is almost no time of the year where I don’t enjoy a glass of Champagne!

Perhaps it is the foods that I tend to eat and the way we cook that influence my taste buds, but I also think there are general wine tastes that appeal to me more or less based on the seasons. There is something about the Rhône that makes me think of curling up by a fireplace, and a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire immediately makes me feel like the trees are budding and the daffodils are blooming. Now, of course, there are definitely exceptions and I do indeed drink white Burgundy in January (in fact, we just did the other night) and a nice Côtes du Rhône in July, but I’d have to say that overall, my tastes in wine do tend to change a bit with the seasons. And there is one other reason – availability. Rosés, for example, are much more available in spring and summer than they are in winter – so there can also be a logistical reason for consumption patterns!

So I’m curious – am I the only one who can think of a pattern to her wine buying and drinking habits? What about you all out there? Do you tend to find certain regions appealing at specific times of the year?