What's Going On in the World of French Wines

Happy Holidays to All! I hope that everyone had a great Christmas or Hanukah and that you are all gearing up for a fun New Year’s celebration. I can’t believe that we have finally reached the end of 2008. I’m usually a little sad to see a year end, but this time I am not feeling quite so nostalgic. I, for one, will be very pleased to be starting a brand new year and can only hope that 2009 brings a new feeling of optimism and joy to all of us.

To help me ring out the old and ring in the new, I’ve planned a small dinner party with some close friends. I was given a fantastic bottle of vintage Champagne a few months ago and it will serve as the centerpiece for our celebration. We’ve decided to keep it pretty simple this year menu-wise and will be serving a selection of appetizers, a cheese fondue course and a big salad. We will close with a chocolate fondue and some Moet & Chandon White Star Champagne to enjoy when the ball drops.
I’ll be back in a few days with some more updates to the blog and don’t forget, I am starting my search for my list of picks for 2009, so if you have a wine you love that you want to nominate, I’d love to hear about it. I’m especially looking for great French wines that are between $8 and $25, so if you have a favorite, please share it with me!

I wish all of you readers a safe and happy New Year and thank you for being a part of the 2008 Wines of France blog. I am so excited about some of the things we have planned for 2009. So be sure to stop by in the new year to see what’s happening. In fact, you can add it to your resolutions – Read the Wines of France blog on a regular basis. I love resolutions - I’m at 5 goals for 2009 at the moment – 1) be more consistent about my running, 2) conquer the obscene amounts of paper in my office, 3) find at least four new wines a month to share with you all on the blog, 4) park my car in the garage (we STILL can’t get our cars in the garage at the new house), and 5) make a decent Thai curry. I’m sure I will think of a few more between now and midnight, and if you have any you’d like to share (besides continuing to be a devoted WoF blog reader), be sure and drop me a line.

Happy New Year!

I read an article a few days ago that said that many Americans would be turning to beer instead of Champagne this year for their celebrations due to cost. Now, I love beer so this is definitely NOT a knock on this idea (you should see my collection of beer steins from my summer in Germany), but I did want to mention that there are a number of very affordable sparkling wines out there that would be perfect for a party or a New Year’s Eve celebration.
There are excellent quality Crémants produced from around France. Ask your favorite wine store if they carry any Cremants from regions such as Burgundy, the Loire or Alsace. One from my list that I highly recommend is the Lucien Albrecht Brut Rosé Cremant d’Alsace. Crémant is sparkling wine made by the same method as Champagne, but it is generally not aged as long as Champagne and it is not made from grapes grown in the Champagne region. In this case, the Albrecht Crémant is from Alsace and is made from Pinot Noir.
There are also sparkling wines made from grapes sourced from a variety of regions in France (these would not be labeled as Crémants or as Champagne). One example would be the delicious and reliable François Montand Blanc de Blancs, a very affordable French sparkling wine that is fairly widely distributed.
And also, I would urge you to take a look through your store’s Champagne section. There are actually a number of very affordable Champagnes out there priced between $25 and $35 and many stores are offering some good deals on wines these days. And if you are having a small celebration, be sure to check out the two half bottles of Champagne I have on my list – the Moet & Chandon White Star and the Taittinger Brut La Française. These are two terrific Champagnes in half-bottles for under $25.

There are few wine regions in this world as famous as Bordeaux. You could also argue that few regions produce wines that have been as emulated as those of Bordeaux. Bordeaux produces more top-quality wines than any other region in France and it is home to some of the world’s most expensive wines. There is a range of wines produced in the region that runs from elegant, dry whites from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon to full-bodied, tannic reds made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc to sweet, luscious dessert wines made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

Let’s start with a few words about the history of Bordeaux, as that is actually central to the development of the region. We know, thanks to the Latin poet Ausonius, that grapes have been grown in the region going back to the 4th century AD. However, the most important historical date to remember when it comes to Bordeaux is 1152 – which is when Henry II (who was the future King of England at the time) married Eleanor of Aquitaine (who had recently divorced the King of France, Louis VII). Eleanor, who was the Duchess of Aquitaine, the Countess of Poitiers and Duchess of Gascony, had control over much of the South-west part of France, including the region of Bordeaux. Her land-holdings made her one of the wealthiest and most powerful women in Europe. The marriage between Henry and Eleanor was central to the expansion of Bordeaux as a wine region as it gave Bordeaux merchants special treatment in London. This meant that Bordeaux wine was cheaper than other imports for the English and the Bordelais were able to dramatically increase their market share in England.

Bordeaux’s position as a port on the coast of France right on the Atlantic made it perfectly situated as a trading center, so even after the English lost control of the region, Bordeaux remained a fairly wealthy merchant city thanks to trade agreements with other European cities. The wealth of the merchant class in Bordeaux is mostly responsible for the unique structure of the Bordeaux wine industry, which includes a middleman called a négociant, who provides a link in the selling chain between the large chateaux and the consumer.

Water and wine are thus central to understanding Bordeaux. Without the easy access to the sea and its status as an important port, the city of Bordeaux would probably not have been able to establish such a successful wine trade and without the powerful and successful merchant class, there would not have been as much wealth that was used to establish and grow the vineyards of the region. Proximity to water is also an essential part of what makes the wines of Bordeaux so unique. The maritime climate with its moderate temperatures and high levels of humidity are central to the structured and elegant wines produced in the region. The humidity is also key to the production of Bordeaux’s sweet wines, which we will discuss in more depth in the next post.

When I sat down to write this post about Bordeaux, it occurred to me that the only way to approach such a hugely important region was to break it up into multiple parts. In order to not overload you with information, I am going to use the geography of Bordeaux as a way to organize my posts on the region. The region can be divided into several parts and the divisions are based on the location of the main rivers in the area. There are two main rivers in Bordeaux – the Dordogne and the Garonne - which meet together and flow into the Gironde estuary. On the west side of the Gironde is the Médoc, also called the Left Bank, and on the other, Pomerol and St-Emilion, referred to as the Right Bank. In between the Dordogne and the Garonne rivers is the appellation of Entre-Deux-Mers (which means “between the seas”), which is a main area of white wine production. And on the south side of the Garonne are other important white wine appellations for both dry and sweet wines – Graves, Pessac-Leognan, Sauternes and Barsac. So consider this first post as a bit of an introduction; we will continue next with a post about the white wines of Bordeaux, both dry and sweet, and then we will move into the red wines and cover both the left and the right banks.

In checking today’s wine headlines, there were two that I came across that I thought were definitely worth sharing.

The first is rather exciting – according to Decanter.com, a technique developed by NASA to remove contaminants in the air has been shown to be effective at removing TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole) from the air. Decanter.com says that “Airocide was originally developed in the 1990s to keep fruit and vegetables fresh on a space station.” If this technology can be applied to the cork industry, it could potentially mean that corks and wines affected by TCA could be a thing of the past.

Corked wines, wines that have been affected by TCA and have a smell and taste of wet, moldy cardboard are very frustrating for wine educators. As people have different sensitivities to TCA, it is difficult to teach wine drinkers how to definitively identify a corked wine. Some wines have a very strong wet cardboard aroma, but others can be more subtle. Just last night at a work dinner, my husband was confronted with just such a problem. As the one who selected the wines, Bill was also the one to check the wines before they were poured for the table. The white wine was fine, but Bill wasn’t so sure about the bottle orfred he selected. Worried that he would be making a fuss, Bill hesitated to say anything, so he let it go. But when the table ordered a second bottle of the same red wine, Bill had the opportunity to taste a second bottle. That’s when he realized that the first bottle was definitely “off.” But without the opportunity to compare two bottles, it can be very difficult for most people to say for sure that a bottle is corked. So, the news that TCA could potentially be less of a worry would indeed be a great thing!

The second article I saw today that I wanted to share was courtesy of Geteyesmart.org. This website shows a great video that demonstrates the proper way of opening a bottle of Champagne. With the holidays upon us, I can think of no better time to address this issue. I have seen too many bottles of Champagne opened incorrectly and this can actually be quite dangerous. The website also lists several great tips to follow when opening a bottle of sparkling wine. So take two minutes of your time and check it out. Once you know the right way to open a bottle of sparkling wine, it is not only easier, but it is much safer too!

Even though we didn’t host Thanksgiving, I went ahead last week and cooked a giant turkey just so I could have the leftovers. I love to make my own stock and I figured that a big turkey could provide us with a number of different meals. One of our favorite leftover turkey dishes is turkey tetrazzini.

Although it sounds like it might be an Italian dish, the theory is actually that the recipe for turkey tetrazzini originated in San Francisco. Supposedly, it was named to honor an opera singer named Luisa Tetrazzini (1875-1940), who lived there.

Regardless of where it comes from, it is a popular dish in our house, and with so much left-over turkey, it was a perfect choice for dinner the other night. I use the Cooks Illustrated version, but you can find a lot of variations on the web if you are interested in finding a recipe for yourself. Essentially it is turkey, noodles, mushrooms, onions and peas baked in a cream sauce – sounds good, right? My version calls for a lot of parmesan cheese and a toasted breadcrumb topping that I find keeps the dish from getting bland and mushy.

As I made the turkey tetrazzini (Peter really enjoyed saying this out loud, by the way), my thoughts naturally turned to wine and I did a mental run-down of what I have in the cellar at the moment. I decided that I was in the mood for a white wine. We had paired the turkey with a red wine a few days before and while it was delicious, I felt like trying something completely different. So I selected a bottled of the Jean-François Mérieau, Sauvignon de Touraine, “l’Arpent des Vaudons” to serve with the turkey tetrazzini.

While I was a bit apprehensive that the Sauvignon Blanc might be too aggressive for the cream sauce, the combination was actually quite good. The earthy flavors from the mushrooms and the turkey balanced the fruitiness of the wine and the nice acidity on the Sauvignon Blanc was a good counterpart to the cream sauce. The wine seemed to brighten up the dish a bit and it made for a very refreshing match. I think I could have also paired this with a Pinot Blanc, a Chardonnay or even a Pinot Noir with great success, as this is a pretty wine-friendly meal. But there is something so lively and fresh about Sauvignon Blanc that it always makes a meal fun. And given this particular dish, it somehow seemed an apropos choice.

While out running the other day, my friend Jill asked me for some advice on picking out a special bottle of wine to give as a gift. I thought her question was a good one for discussing on the blog, given that the holiday shopping press is officially on!

There are lots of different scenarios that you might be facing this holiday season when it comes to trying to find the right bottle of wine to give as a gift. I thought it might be helpful to discuss a few of the most common.

The Boss/Parent/Parent-in-law (i.e. someone you want to impress)
Price range: $30-$80

This category is for when you need to bring out the heavy guns. This is a gift that needs to be a little showy, a little over-the-top. I usually turn to Champagne, Bordeaux or Burgundy for this one. All three regions have that extra cachet and you can find some excellent Bordeaux and Burgundy from the outstanding 2005 vintage. You can go with either a red (Pinot Noir) or a white (Chardonnay) from Burgundy; while the whites from Bordeaux are excellent, in this case I would suggest you go with a red Bordeaux. With the Champagne in this price range, you will have a great deal to choose from: you can find some terrific non-vintage wines and possibly even a vintage bottle (although you may have to pay a little more). It is best to find a very reputable wine store in your area and ask them for a suggestion of a specific producer. The wine store employee will be able to help you select just the right wine.

The Teacher/Hairdresser/Hostess gift (i.e. you want to say thank you)
Price range: $12-$25

For this category, I think you can afford to be a bit adventurous. If you know a little bit about the recipient’s tastes, it can help steer you in one direction over another, but this can also be an opportunity to give someone a gift that might introduce him or her to a new grape or region. So I would look to regions that produce wines that are great for everyday drinking and go well with a wide variety of foods. I suggest looking for wines from Alsace (the Pierre Sparr ONE would be a good choice), the Rhône (such as Paul Jaboulet Aîné Côtes du Rhône “Parallèle 45″ or the Perrin Family Côtes du Rhône Villages) or the Languedoc-Roussillon area (great choices would be Château de Rieux Minervois, Laurent Miquel Syrah Vin de Pays d’Oc, Laurent Miquel Viognier Vin de Pays d’Oc, or Le Loup Blanc La Mère Grand Minervois).

The Best Friend/Spouse gift (i.e. saying I care about you and would like to drink this with you next time we get together)
Price range: $20-30

For this gift, I would look for something that you can have fun sharing with someone. So, I would recommend something a little on the sweet side, like the Castelnau de Suduiraut Sauternes or the Moet & Chandon White Star. Both would be perfect for serving with something sweet and would be great for enjoying with some Christmas cookies and a great conversation.

The Environmentally Conscious Friend
Price range: $12-25

For this gift, I would recommend that you search out some wines that are made biodynamically (like the Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss Perrières Costières de Nimes) or with organically grown grapes (Arrogant Frog “Lily Pad Red” Vin de Pays d’Oc is one such wine) or wines that have been packaged in environmentally-friendly bottles (the Mommessin Beaujolais Grande Réserve is a perfect choice). Another interesting option would be the Walden Côtes du Roussillon, which is a fair-trade wine.

So, happy shopping and if you have any questions about specific gift suggestions, please feel free to email me or leave a comment. I look forward to hearing from you!

A while back I posted a quiz of 10 wine-related questions. I realized the other day while looking at some old posts that somehow, I got carried away and forgot to give you all the answers! My bad! So, I wanted to make up for my slip by reposting the questions - this time along with the answers!

1. This woman is credited with the invention of the riddling process of remuage.

The answer is Madame Clicquot – also called Veuve Clicquot (Veuve means widow in French). For more on the fascinating Widow Clicquot, I suggest checking out her biography.

2. This woman was the first resident American to pass the Master of Wine exam.

The answer is Mary Ewing Mulligan, who along with her husband Ed McCarthy is known for authoring the Wine for Dummies series. They have a new book on California coming out sometime soon – keep your eyes peeled for it. Although some people might think the Dummies series are too simplistic, the Wine for Dummies series is a truly fantastic look at wine around the world that I recommend for all knowledge levels.

3. This woman was the first non-trade person to pass the Master of Wine exam in 1984. She is also an Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE).

The answer is the amazing Jancis Robinson. Jancis is one of the most influential and respected wine authorities in the world. I absolutely love her website and highly recommend all of her books.

4. It used to be believed that a woman was capable of turning wine into vinegar if she entered a winery while…

She was menstruating. There are also other myths about women not being able to handle other food products during that time of the month. Luckily for us women, most people now recognize that this is just simply not true.

5. Supposedly, this woman’s breasts served as the model for the creation of Champagne coupes.

The answer here varies quite a bit – this is another interesting wine legend. Various candidates have been Helen of Troy (mind you Champagne didn’t exist back then and I am pretty sure Helen wasn’t drinking from glass coupes, either), Marie Antoinette and Madame de Pompadour.

6. This woman was the first to build and operate a winery in California (hint, the winery is now Freemark Abbey).

The answer is Josephine Marlin Tychson. For more information on her, I suggest checking out Freemark Abbey’s website.

7. This woman’s marriage to Henry, Duke of Normandy (later Henry II) in 1152 created a lasting connection between England and Bordeaux.

The answer is Eleanor of Aquitaine – one of my favorite queens. Eleanor was married to both a French and an English king, a unique distinction! Her marriage to Henry II gave Bordeaux wine merchants favorable status in the English market, thus helping to grow the wine trade.

8. This woman’s groundbreaking work on grape DNA has helped to identify the parentage of several major grapes.

The answer is Dr. Carole P. Meredith. Dr. Meredith’s work on the parentage of Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Syrah (among others) has really changed our understanding of these grapes.

9. This famous Bordeaux château owner once acted under the stage name of Philippine Pascale.

The answer is none other than Baroness Philippine Pascale de Rothschild, owner of the Bordeaux winery Château Mouton Rothschild.

10. This English Queen was known for her love of “hock” wine.

The answer is Queen Victoria. Hock wine was a term the English used for German wine.

I hope you enjoyed these. If you have any fun trivia questions about wine, be sure to submit them to me.